DEV Community: epifive

Remove Duplicates and Count Unique Values in Excel: 5 Methods That Work

epifive — Mon, 02 Nov 2026 05:14:49 +0000

To remove duplicates in Excel, click inside your data, select Data > Remove Duplicates, choose the columns that define a duplicate and click OK; Excel keeps the first occurrence and deletes the rest. To count unique values without deleting anything, combine the UNIQUE, FILTER and COUNTA functions in Excel for Microsoft 365, Excel 2024 or Excel 2021, or use a PivotTable with Distinct Count. This guide walks through five methods on one sample table, with the exact result each formula returns.

Who this is for and what you will have

This guide is for anyone who keeps lists in Excel, such as orders, contacts or sign-ups, and needs to clear out repeated rows or answer "how many different customers do we have?" By the end you will be able to highlight duplicates, remove them by one or more columns, build a live list of unique values, count unique values with or without a condition, get a distinct count from a PivotTable, and fix the usual reasons Remove Duplicates "does not work".

UNIQUE and FILTER need Excel for Microsoft 365, Excel 2024 or Excel 2021 on Windows or Mac, or the Excel apps for iPad, iPhone and Android; these are the versions Microsoft lists for both functions. The SUMPRODUCT and COUNTIF formulas also work in Excel 2019 and Excel 2016.

The sample data

Every example uses this order list, with headings in row 1 and data in A2:E13.

Order ID	Customer	Region	Product	Amount
1001	Contoso	East	Laptop	1200
1002	Fabrikam	West	Monitor	300
1003	Contoso	East	Dock	150
1004	Northwind Traders	South	Laptop	1200
1002	Fabrikam	West	Monitor	300
1005	Adventure Works	East	Headset	80
1006	Fabrikam	East	Laptop	1200
1007	Tailspin Toys	South	Monitor	300
1008		West	Dock	150
1009	Contoso	East	Monitor	300
1010	Wingtip Toys	West	Headset	80
1011	Northwind Traders	South	Dock	150

Three things in this list are typical of real data. Order 1002 appears twice (rows 3 and 6), which is a true duplicate row. Customers repeat: Contoso and Fabrikam have three orders each and Northwind Traders has two. And order 1008 in row 10 has an empty Customer cell, which changes the result of several formulas.

Before you use any method that deletes data, copy the original data to another sheet or workbook. Microsoft gives this advice because Remove Duplicates deletes rows permanently; Undo is the only way back.

Step 1: Highlight duplicates before deleting anything

Microsoft recommends highlighting or filtering first so you can confirm the result is what you expect. Conditional Formatting changes nothing in the data.

Select A2:A13 (the Order ID column).
On the Home tab, in the Styles group, select the arrow next to Conditional Formatting.
Select Highlight Cells Rules > Duplicate Values, keep Duplicate and the default format, and select OK.

Two cells are highlighted: both entries for order 1002. On B2:B13, eight cells are highlighted: three for Contoso, three for Fabrikam and two for Northwind Traders.

To flag only the second and later copies, which are the rows Remove Duplicates would delete, enter this in F2 and fill it down to F13:

=COUNTIF($B$2:B2,B2)>1

It returns TRUE in rows 4, 6, 8, 11 and 13. Filter column F on TRUE to review those rows. COUNTIF criteria are not case sensitive, so "contoso" and "CONTOSO" count as the same customer.

Method 1: Remove Duplicates (deletes rows, keeps the first)

Click any cell inside the data, or select the range.
On the Data tab, in the Data Tools group, select Remove Duplicates. In Excel for the web, the path is Data > Remove Duplicates.
Under Columns, check the columns that together define a duplicate. Select All and Unselect All are shortcuts.
Select OK. Excel reports how many duplicates were removed and how many unique values remain. Select OK again.

If the result is wrong, press Ctrl+Z straight away. What gets deleted depends entirely on the columns you check:

Columns checked	Rows removed	Rows left	What you get
All five columns	1 (second 1002)	11	Exact duplicate rows removed
Customer only	5 (rows 4, 6, 8, 11, 13)	7	One row per customer
Customer and Region	4 (rows 4, 6, 11, 13)	8	One row per customer per region

Two rules from Microsoft explain these results:

The first occurrence is kept. Later identical rows are deleted. To keep a different row, such as each customer's largest order, sort by Amount from largest to smallest first so that row is on top.
Whole rows are deleted. The checked columns are only the matching key. With Customer checked, Contoso's Dock and Monitor orders disappear along with their amounts.

Only cells inside the selected range or table are affected, so select every column, or click inside the data, before you start.

Method 2: Advanced Filter (unique records without deleting)

To get a clean copy and keep the original intact, use Advanced Filter. Microsoft notes that filtering for unique values only hides duplicates temporarily; it does not delete them.

Select A1:E13, including the heading row.
Select Data > Sort & Filter > Advanced.
Choose Copy to another location and enter G1 in Copy to.
Check Unique records only and select OK.

Excel copies the headings and 11 records starting at G1, leaving out the second 1002 row. For unique customers only, select B1:B13 in step 1 instead.

Microsoft's own counting method builds on this: count the copied list with ROWS, leaving out the heading. With the records in G2:G12, this returns 11:

=ROWS(G2:G12)

The copy is static. When the source changes, run the filter again or use UNIQUE.

Method 3: The UNIQUE function (a live list)

UNIQUE returns the distinct values from a range and spills them into the cells below:

=UNIQUE(array,[by_col],[exactly_once])

array is the range to check.
by_col is optional. FALSE or left out compares rows; TRUE compares columns.
exactly_once is optional. FALSE or left out returns every distinct value; TRUE returns only values that occur exactly once.

List unique values and ignore blanks

In an empty cell to the right of your data, such as M2, enter:

=UNIQUE(B2:B13)

It spills seven cells: Contoso, Fabrikam, Northwind Traders, Adventure Works, Tailspin Toys, 0 and Wingtip Toys. The 0 comes from the empty cell in row 10. To drop it, let FILTER remove empty cells first; the condition B2:B13<>"" is TRUE for every cell that is not empty:

=UNIQUE(FILTER(B2:B13,B2:B13<>""))

This returns six customers. Add SORT, as Microsoft does in its UNIQUE examples, for an alphabetical list that starts with Adventure Works and ends with Wingtip Toys:

=SORT(UNIQUE(FILTER(B2:B13,B2:B13<>"")))

Unique combinations of two columns

Give UNIQUE two columns and it compares whole rows:

=UNIQUE(B2:C13)

This spills eight customer and region pairs, the same eight rows Remove Duplicates kept with Customer and Region checked. Fabrikam appears twice, once for West and once for East.

Values that appear exactly once

Set the third argument to TRUE, which Microsoft describes as the database concept of unique:

=UNIQUE(FILTER(B2:B13,B2:B13<>""),,TRUE)

Result: Adventure Works, Tailspin Toys and Wingtip Toys. This answers "remove duplicates and keep none": every customer with more than one order is left out.

Compare across a row

If values run across a row, for example East, West, East, South, West, East in A20:F20, set by_col to TRUE. The result spills to the right as East, West, South:

=UNIQUE(A20:F20,TRUE)

If the source is an Excel table referenced with structured references, Microsoft notes that the result resizes as rows are added or removed. Put the formula outside the table, because spilled formulas are not supported inside Excel tables.

Method 4: Count unique values with a formula

Count distinct values in a column

Wrap UNIQUE in COUNTA or ROWS:

=COUNTA(UNIQUE(B2:B13))

=ROWS(UNIQUE(B2:B13))

Both return 7, because the empty cell counts as one value. For the number of real customers, filter out blanks first. This returns 6:

=COUNTA(UNIQUE(FILTER(B2:B13,B2:B13<>"")))

To count customers who ordered exactly once, this returns 3:

=ROWS(UNIQUE(FILTER(B2:B13,B2:B13<>""),,TRUE))

Count unique values with criteria

Add the condition to FILTER. Multiplying two conditions means both must be TRUE. With a region name typed in O2:

=IFERROR(ROWS(UNIQUE(FILTER(B2:B13,(C2:C13=O2)*(B2:B13<>"")))),0)

East returns 3 (Contoso, Adventure Works, Fabrikam), West returns 2 (Fabrikam, Wingtip Toys) and South returns 2 (Northwind Traders, Tailspin Toys). Without the (B2:B13<>"") condition, West would return 3 because of order 1008.

IFERROR matters because FILTER returns #CALC! when nothing matches, since Excel does not support empty arrays. Do not swap in COUNTA with FILTER's third argument set to an empty string: COUNTA counts empty text, so a region with no orders would return 1.

The pattern works for any column and condition. This counts the different products Contoso bought (Laptop, Dock, Monitor) and returns 3:

=ROWS(UNIQUE(FILTER(D2:D13,B2:B13="Contoso")))

Excel 2019 and earlier: SUMPRODUCT and COUNTIF

The classic formula weights each value by 1 divided by the number of times it appears, so three copies of Contoso add up to 1. On the Order ID column, which has no blanks, this returns 11:

=SUMPRODUCT(1/COUNTIF(A2:A13,A2:A13))

The caveat is blank cells. Point it at B2:B13 and it returns #DIV/0!: the empty cell in row 10 becomes a criterion that matches nothing, COUNTIF returns 0 for that row, and 1/0 is a division by zero. Microsoft documents the same rule for COUNTIFS, which treats a criterion that refers to an empty cell as 0. The blank-safe version joins an empty string to the criteria and sets the numerator to 0 for empty cells. It returns 6:

=SUMPRODUCT((B2:B13<>"")/COUNTIF(B2:B13,B2:B13&""))

For a condition, use COUNTIFS in the denominator. This returns 3 for East, and 2 if you change it to "West":

=SUMPRODUCT((C2:C13="East")*(B2:B13<>"")/COUNTIFS(B2:B13,B2:B13&"",C2:C13,C2:C13&""))

All ranges must be the same size, or SUMPRODUCT returns #VALUE!.

Method 5: PivotTable Distinct Count

A PivotTable can count distinct values per group without formulas, but Microsoft states that Distinct Count "only works when you use the Data Model in Excel".

Click any cell in A1:E13 and select Insert > PivotTable.
Choose New Worksheet, check Add this data to the Data Model, and select OK.
Drag Region to Rows and Order ID to Values.
Right-click a number in the Values area and select Value Field Settings.
On the Summarize Values By tab, select Distinct Count, the last item, and select OK.

The PivotTable shows East 5, South 3 and West 3, with a Grand Total of 11. A plain Count would show West 4 and a total of 12, because it counts the duplicate 1002 row twice. Use Customer or Product in Values to count distinct customers or products per region.

If Distinct Count is missing, the PivotTable was built without the Data Model. Create a new one from the same data and check the box. Microsoft's summary-function steps are written for Excel for Windows, and the Mac and web instructions on its PivotTable page do not include the Data Model option.

Common errors and fixes

Rows that look identical are not removed. Invisible characters count: "Contoso" and "Contoso " (trailing space) are different values. Clean the column in a helper column, then copy it and use Home, the arrow below Paste, Paste Special > Values to paste over the original:

=TRIM(B2)

TRIM removes the ordinary space (character 32) but not the nonbreaking space (character 160) common in text copied from web pages. Microsoft's data-cleaning guidance is to combine TRIM, CLEAN and SUBSTITUTE, using SUBSTITUTE to replace character 160 first:

=TRIM(CLEAN(SUBSTITUTE(B2,CHAR(160)," ")))

Numbers stored as text. An imported Order ID can be text, often marked with a green triangle. Select the cells, select the error indicator and choose Convert to Number, or convert in a helper column and paste the values back. Make the whole column one type before deduplicating:

=VALUE(A2)

Dates shown in different formats. Microsoft notes that comparison depends on what appears in the cell, so 3/8/2006 and Mar 8, 2006 are treated as unique. Apply one date format to the column first.

Nothing is removed with all columns checked. Two orders from the same customer differ in Order ID, so they are not duplicates across all columns. Check only the columns that define a duplicate.

Outlined data or subtotals. Microsoft states that you cannot remove duplicates from outlined data or data with subtotals. Remove both first.

Upper and lower case. COUNTIF is not case sensitive, and Microsoft's pages for Remove Duplicates and UNIQUE do not say how case is handled, so do not rely on either to keep "ACME" and "Acme" apart. EXACT is case sensitive; with ACME in B2 and Acme in B3, this returns FALSE:

=EXACT(B2,B3)

You can also standardize the column with UPPER, LOWER or PROPER before deduplicating.

#SPILL! from UNIQUE. Cells below the formula are not empty, the formula is inside a table, or the spill range has merged cells. Select the error, choose Select Obstructing Cells, and clear what is in the way or move the formula.

#NAME? from UNIQUE or FILTER. The file is open in a version older than Excel 2021. Use Advanced Filter, SUMPRODUCT or a PivotTable instead.

For messier columns, such as inconsistent company names, see cleaning spreadsheet data with AI in Excel and Google Sheets.

Which method to use

Task	Method	Changes the data?
Delete duplicate rows, keep one	Remove Duplicates	Yes
Clean copy, original untouched	Advanced Filter	No
Live list of distinct values	UNIQUE	No
Count distinct values, with criteria	UNIQUE with FILTER	No
Count distinct in Excel 2019 or 2016	SUMPRODUCT with COUNTIF	No
Distinct count per group	PivotTable with Data Model	No

Checklist

Copy the data before using Remove Duplicates.
Highlight duplicates first to see what will go.
Clean spaces, text numbers and date formats.
Check only the columns that define a duplicate, and sort first if a specific row should stay.
Filter out blanks with a not-blank condition before counting.
Wrap filtered counts in IFERROR so no matches returns 0.
Check Add this data to the Data Model for a PivotTable distinct count.

More Microsoft 365 tutorials cover Excel, Outlook, Teams and the rest of the suite.

References

Microsoft Support: Filter for unique values or remove duplicate values
Microsoft Support: UNIQUE function
Microsoft Support: FILTER function
Microsoft Support: Count unique values among duplicates
Microsoft Support: COUNTIF function
Microsoft Support: COUNTIFS function
Microsoft Support: COUNTA function
Microsoft Support: SUMPRODUCT function
Microsoft Support: Change the summary function or custom calculation for a field in a PivotTable
Microsoft Support: Create a PivotTable to analyze worksheet data
Microsoft Support: Create a Data Model in Excel
Microsoft Support: TRIM function
Microsoft Support: Top ten ways to clean your data
Microsoft Support: Convert numbers stored as text to numbers
Microsoft Support: EXACT function
Microsoft Support: How to correct a #SPILL! error

This guide was researched and drafted with AI assistance and checked against the vendor documentation listed in its References. Read the maintained version and related guides on EpiFive.

Excel FILTER Function With Multiple Criteria, Sorted With SORT and SORTBY

epifive — Mon, 02 Nov 2026 05:14:14 +0000

To filter Excel data on more than one condition, wrap each condition in brackets inside FILTER and join them with * for AND or + for OR, for example =FILTER(A2:F13,(C2:C13="East")*(F2:F13>=1500),"No matches"). Wrap that formula in SORT to order the result by one column, or in SORTBY to sort by several columns, and the whole report updates by itself when the data changes.

This guide builds one small sales report step by step, and every formula comes with the exact result it returns on the sample data, so you can check your own sheet as you go.

Who this is for and what you will have at the end

This is for anyone who keeps a list in Excel, such as orders, invoices or tickets, and keeps reapplying AutoFilter every time someone asks for "East region, over 1,500, biggest first". FILTER does the same job with a formula, so the answer stays live.

By the end you will have FILTER formulas for AND, OR, "contains" text and date ranges, a result with only the columns you choose, sorting by one or more columns, a top 3 list, a report driven by input cells, and fixes for the errors these formulas produce.

Before you start: Excel versions and the sample data

These are dynamic array functions. A dynamic array formula is typed in one cell and its results "spill" into the cells next to it. Check that your Excel version has the functions you plan to use. The table below follows the Applies to lists on Microsoft's function pages.

Function	Listed by Microsoft for
FILTER, SORT, SORTBY, LET	Excel for Microsoft 365 (Windows and Mac), Excel 2024, Excel 2021, Excel for iPad, iPhone and Android
CHOOSECOLS, TAKE	Excel for Microsoft 365 (Windows and Mac), Excel 2024

If you share the workbook with people on an older version, see the #NAME? fix in the errors section.

The sample sales table

Type or paste this table into a new sheet so that the header Order is in cell A1 and the last row ends in F13. The data is fictional Contoso-style sales.

Order	Date	Region	Product	Units	Revenue
1001	2026-01-05	East	Laptop Pro 14	3	3600
1002	2026-01-09	West	Wireless Mouse	25	625
1003	2026-01-14	East	USB-C Dock	8	1440
1004	2026-01-22	North	Laptop Air 13	5	4500
1005	2026-02-03	West	Laptop Pro 14	4	4800
1006	2026-02-11	South	Monitor 27	6	1920
1007	2026-02-17	East	Wireless Mouse	40	1000
1008	2026-02-25	North	USB-C Dock	10	1800
1009	2026-03-04	East	Laptop Air 13	2	1800
1010	2026-03-12	South	Laptop Pro 14	6	7200
1011	2026-03-19	West	Monitor 27	3	960
1012	2026-03-27	East	Monitor 27	9	2880

So the data rows are A2:F13: column A is Order, B is Date, C is Region, D is Product, E is Units and F is Revenue. Make sure the dates are real Excel dates, not text.

Unless a section says otherwise, type each formula into cell H4 and replace it as you work through the examples. H4 has empty space to the right and below, which the results need.

FILTER syntax and a first formula

Microsoft documents the syntax as:

=FILTER(array,include,[if_empty])

array is the range to filter, here A2:F13.
include is a Boolean (TRUE/FALSE) array whose height or width matches the array. In practice it is a test on one column, such as C2:C13="East".
if_empty is optional: the value to return when nothing matches.

To list every East order:

=FILTER(A2:F13,C2:C13="East","No matches")

Result: five rows spill into H4:M8, orders 1001, 1003, 1007, 1009 and 1012, with all six columns. Only H4 contains the formula. If you select another cell in the result, the formula appears ghosted (grayed out) in the formula bar, and Microsoft notes that only the first cell of the spill area can be edited.

If the Date column of the result shows five-digit numbers such as 46027, those are Excel date serial numbers. Select that column of the result and apply Short Date from the Number group on the Home tab.

Why if_empty matters

Try a region that does not exist:

=FILTER(A2:F13,C2:C13="Central","No matches")

Result: a single cell that says No matches. Remove the third argument and the same formula returns #CALC!, because, in Microsoft's words, Excel does not currently support empty arrays. Use "" as if_empty if you would rather show a blank cell.

FILTER with multiple criteria

Each condition produces a column of TRUE and FALSE values, one per row. Multiplying or adding two of those columns gives a number for each row, with TRUE counting as 1 and FALSE as 0, and FILTER keeps the rows where that number is not 0.

AND: multiply the conditions with *

A row is kept only when every condition is TRUE, because 1 times 1 is 1 and anything times 0 is 0. East orders with revenue of at least 1,500:

=FILTER(A2:F13,(C2:C13="East")*(F2:F13>=1500),"No matches")

Result: three rows, orders 1001 (3600), 1009 (1800) and 1012 (2880). Orders 1003 and 1007 are East but below 1,500, so they drop out.

Put brackets around each condition. Microsoft's operator precedence table ranks multiplication and addition above comparison operators such as = and >=, so without brackets Excel multiplies before it compares and the logic breaks.

OR: add the conditions with +

A row is kept when at least one condition is TRUE, because the sum is then 1 or more. North or South orders:

=FILTER(A2:F13,(C2:C13="North")+(C2:C13="South"),"No matches")

Result: four rows, orders 1004, 1006, 1008 and 1010.

Combine AND and OR

Put the OR part in its own set of brackets, then multiply by the AND part. North or South orders with revenue over 2,000:

=FILTER(A2:F13,((C2:C13="North")+(C2:C13="South"))*(F2:F13>2000),"No matches")

Result: two rows, orders 1004 (4500) and 1010 (7200). Orders 1006 (1920) and 1008 (1800) are in the right regions but not over 2,000.

Contains text: ISNUMBER and SEARCH

An equals sign only matches the whole cell. To keep rows where the product name contains a word, use SEARCH, which returns the position of the text or #VALUE! when it is not found. ISNUMBER turns that into TRUE or FALSE:

=FILTER(A2:F13,ISNUMBER(SEARCH("laptop",D2:D13)),"No matches")

Result: five rows, orders 1001, 1004, 1005, 1009 and 1010, every Laptop Pro 14 and Laptop Air 13. SEARCH is not case-sensitive, so "laptop" matches "Laptop". Use FIND in place of SEARCH when case matters.

Date range

Compare the Date column with two dates built by DATE(year,month,day) and multiply the tests. All February 2026 orders:

=FILTER(A2:F13,(B2:B13>=DATE(2026,2,1))*(B2:B13<=DATE(2026,2,28)),"No matches")

Result: four rows, orders 1005, 1006, 1007 and 1008. DATE builds each date from year, month and day numbers, so there is no doubt about which day the formula means.

Return only the columns you need with CHOOSECOLS

A report often needs just a few columns. CHOOSECOLS returns the columns you list by number:

=CHOOSECOLS(array,col_num1,[col_num2],...)

Pick the columns first, then filter. Order, Product and Revenue for East:

=FILTER(CHOOSECOLS(A2:F13,1,4,6),C2:C13="East","No matches")

Result: five rows and three columns: 1001 Laptop Pro 14 3600, 1003 USB-C Dock 1440, 1007 Wireless Mouse 1000, 1009 Laptop Air 13 1800, and 1012 Monitor 27 2880.

The order matters. If you write =CHOOSECOLS(FILTER(...),1,4,6) and nothing matches, FILTER returns the single cell "No matches", and CHOOSECOLS then returns #VALUE! because, as Microsoft's page explains, a column number larger than the number of columns is an error. Filtering last avoids that.

CHOOSECOLS is listed for Microsoft 365 and Excel 2024. In Excel 2021 you can get the same three columns by filtering a second time across the columns with a row of 1s and 0s, where 1 keeps a column:

=FILTER(FILTER(A2:F13,C2:C13="East","No matches"),{1,0,0,1,0,1})

Result: the same five rows and three columns as above.

Sort the results with SORT

SORT orders a range or array by one of its columns:

=SORT(array,[sort_index],[sort_order],[by_col])

sort_index is the column number inside the array to sort by. If you leave it out, the first column is used.
sort_order is 1 for ascending (the default) or -1 for descending.
by_col is FALSE (the default) to sort rows, or TRUE to sort columns.

East orders, largest revenue first. Revenue is the sixth column of A2:F13:

=SORT(FILTER(A2:F13,C2:C13="East","No matches"),6,-1)

Result: orders 1001 (3600), 1012 (2880), 1009 (1800), 1003 (1440) and 1007 (1000), in that order.

The sort_index counts columns in the array SORT receives, not sheet columns. If you sort the three-column CHOOSECOLS result, Revenue is column 3, not 6.

Sort by multiple columns with SORTBY

SORTBY sorts one array by other ranges and accepts several sort keys:

=SORTBY(array,by_array1,[sort_order1],[by_array2,sort_order2],...)

Each by_array must be a single column (or a single row), and Microsoft states that all arguments must be the same size. A sort order other than 1 or -1 returns #VALUE!. Microsoft's SORT page also recommends SORTBY for sorting data in the grid, because it refers to a range rather than a column number and keeps working when columns are added or removed.

The whole table by Region A to Z, then by Revenue largest first within each region:

=SORTBY(A2:F13,C2:C13,1,F2:F13,-1)

Result: East 1001, 1012, 1009, 1003, 1007; North 1004, 1008; South 1010, 1006; West 1005, 1011, 1002.

SORTBY on a filtered result

Every by_array must match the size of the array, so C2:C13 will not work against a filtered result with fewer rows. Filter the sort columns with the same condition instead. Orders with revenue of at least 1,500, by Region, then by Revenue descending:

=SORTBY(FILTER(A2:F13,F2:F13>=1500,"No matches"),FILTER(C2:C13,F2:F13>=1500),1,FILTER(F2:F13,F2:F13>=1500),-1)

A shorter version names the filtered result once with LET and picks the sort columns out of it with CHOOSECOLS (Microsoft 365 and Excel 2024):

=LET(data,FILTER(A2:F13,F2:F13>=1500,"No matches"),SORTBY(data,CHOOSECOLS(data,3),1,CHOOSECOLS(data,6),-1))

Result for both: eight rows, East 1001 (3600), 1012 (2880), 1009 (1800); North 1004 (4500), 1008 (1800); South 1010 (7200), 1006 (1920); West 1005 (4800).

Show the top N with TAKE

TAKE returns a number of rows or columns from the start or end of an array:

=TAKE(array,rows,[columns])

A negative number takes from the end. Sort descending, then take the first rows. Top 3 orders by revenue:

=TAKE(SORT(A2:F13,6,-1),3)

Result: 1010 (7200), 1005 (4800) and 1004 (4500).

Top 3 East orders:

=TAKE(SORT(FILTER(A2:F13,C2:C13="East","No matches"),6,-1),3)

Result: 1001 (3600), 1012 (2880) and 1009 (1800). TAKE is listed for Microsoft 365 and Excel 2024.

Build a live report from criteria cells

A report is easier to reuse when the criteria sit in cells. Set up:

H1: Region, and I1: East
H2: Min revenue, and I2: 1500

Then in H4:

=SORT(FILTER(A2:F13,(C2:C13=I1)*(F2:F13>=I2),"No matches"),6,-1)

Result: 1001 (3600), 1012 (2880) and 1009 (1800). Type West in I1 and the result changes at once to 1005 (4800) alone.

To let a blank region cell mean "all regions", add an OR test on the input cell itself:

=FILTER(A2:F13,((C2:C13=I1)+(I1=""))*(F2:F13>=I2),"No matches")

With I1 cleared and I2 still 1500, the result is the eight orders of 1,500 or more: 1001, 1004, 1005, 1006, 1008, 1009, 1010 and 1012.

Keep the criteria cells outside the area the result will fill. If an input cell sits inside the spill range, the formula shows #SPILL! instead of results.

Refer to the spilled results with

To use the whole spilled result in another formula, add the spilled range operator # after the address of the formula cell. With =FILTER(A2:F13,C2:C13="East","No matches") in H4, enter these in empty cells outside H4:M8, such as O1 and O2:

=ROWS(H4#)
=SUM(TAKE(H4#,,-1))

Results: 5 matching orders, and 10720 total East revenue (TAKE with -1 columns returns the last column, Revenue). When the filter returns more or fewer rows, both formulas follow automatically. If FILTER shows "No matches", ROWS returns 1, so test for that text before you report a count.

Microsoft notes that the spilled range operator does not support references to closed workbooks; those return #REF! until you open the source workbook.

Use an Excel table so new rows are included

A fixed range like A2:F13 does not grow when you add row 14. Convert the data to an Excel table: select a cell in the data, choose Home > Format as Table, pick a style, and confirm the header row. Then select a cell in the table and type Sales in the Table Name box on the Table Design tab.

The table name on its own refers to the data rows without the header, and Sales[Region] refers to one column:

=FILTER(Sales,(Sales[Region]="East")*(Sales[Revenue]>=1500),"No matches")

Result: orders 1001, 1009 and 1012, as before. Add an East order with revenue of 2,400 directly under the table and it becomes part of the table, so it appears in the result without editing the formula.

FILTER does not return the header row. To label the output, put this in the cell above the formula, for example in H3:

=Sales[#Headers]

Place these formulas on the grid outside the table. Microsoft states that spilled array formulas are not supported inside Excel tables.

Common errors and fixes

Error	Cause	Fix
#CALC!	No rows match and if_empty is missing	Add a third argument such as "No matches" or ""
#SPILL!	Cells in the spill range are not empty	Select the formula, choose Select Obstructing Cells, clear or move that content
#SPILL!	Formula is inside an Excel table	Move it outside the table, or convert the table to a range
#SPILL!	Spill range contains merged cells	Unmerge them or move the formula
#VALUE!	include range is a different size from array	Make both ranges start and end on the same rows
#VALUE!	SORTBY sort order is not 1 or -1	Use 1 for ascending or -1 for descending
#VALUE!	CHOOSECOLS column number is 0 or too large	Count columns in the array it receives
#NAME?	Text criterion without quotes, or function not available	Add quotes; check your Excel version
#REF!	Source or spilled range is in a closed workbook	Open the source workbook

#SPILL!

When you select the formula cell, a dashed border shows where the results want to go, and the error alert offers Select Obstructing Cells to jump to the blocker. Microsoft also lists results that would run past the edge of the worksheet and running out of memory; reference a smaller range for both. To keep a formula that sits in a table, convert the table with Table Design > Tools > Convert to range.

#VALUE! with mismatched ranges

=FILTER(A2:F13,C2:C12="East","No matches") tests 11 rows against 12 data rows and returns #VALUE! in current Excel. An Excel table avoids this, because Sales and Sales[Region] always cover the same rows.

#NAME?

Microsoft's #NAME? page gives a misspelled function name as the top reason, and text without double quotation marks as another: C2:C13=East returns #NAME?, while C2:C13="East" works. A function missing from your version, such as CHOOSECOLS in Excel 2021, is not recognized either. For workbooks shared with older versions, Microsoft advises avoiding features those users lack and running the Compatibility Checker to find dynamic array formulas, which older versions show as legacy array formulas that cannot resize.

Checklist

Each FILTER has a third argument so an empty result shows text instead of #CALC!.
Every condition is in its own brackets; * joins AND conditions and + joins OR conditions.
The include ranges start and end on the same rows as the array.
SORT uses the column number inside the array it sorts; SORTBY uses ranges of the same size with 1 or -1.
CHOOSECOLS runs before FILTER, not after, so an empty result does not turn into #VALUE!.
Criteria cells and other content sit outside the spill range.
The source data is an Excel table, and the formulas sit outside it.
Everyone who opens the file has a version that lists the functions used.

For more on dynamic array functions, see remove duplicates and count unique values in Excel, and for tidying a messy list before you filter it, see clean messy spreadsheet data with AI in Excel and Google Sheets. More Microsoft 365 tutorials cover Excel, Outlook and the rest of the suite.

References

This guide was researched and drafted with AI assistance and checked against the vendor documentation listed in its References. Read the maintained version and related guides on EpiFive.

Windows 11 Clean Install from USB with the Media Creation Tool

epifive — Mon, 02 Nov 2026 05:13:39 +0000

A clean install of Windows 11 means building a bootable USB drive with Microsoft's Media Creation Tool, starting the PC from it, and installing Windows onto a wiped drive. The tool is a free download from Microsoft, you need a blank USB drive of at least 8 GB, and the whole job is mostly waiting once the drive is ready. The step that matters most happens before you start: backing up everything you want to keep, because a clean install removes it.

Who this is for and what you will have at the end

This guide is for anyone who needs to reinstall Windows 11 on a PC that is slow, infected, corrupted, or being handed to a new owner, and for anyone setting up a used or newly built PC with no operating system. It assumes you can reach a working Windows PC, which can be a different computer from the one you are fixing, to build the USB drive.

At the end you will have a freshly installed copy of Windows 11 from Microsoft's own installer, an activation status you have checked, and your boot order set back to normal. You will also know when a clean install is the wrong tool. Microsoft's recovery guidance treats installation media as a last resort for when nothing else works or you suspect malware, so read the next section before you wipe anything.

Decide whether you need a clean install

Windows 11 has several ways to repair or reinstall, and a USB clean install is the most disruptive. Microsoft's Recovery options page describes them like this:

Option	Where	What happens to your data
Reinstall Windows (via Windows Update)	Recovery options	Keeps files, apps and settings; the least disruptive reinstall
Reset this PC, keep my files	Settings, or WinRE under Troubleshoot	Keeps personal files; removes apps and settings
Reset this PC, remove everything	Settings, or WinRE under Troubleshoot	Removes personal files, apps and settings
Cloud rebuild	Settings > System > Recovery > Rebuild PC, or WinRE under Troubleshoot > Cloud rebuild	Fresh Windows and drivers from Windows Update; removes personal files, apps and settings. Windows 11 only
Clean installation	Boot from installation media	Removes Windows, personal files, apps and settings from the selected drive

If the PC still starts, try the gentler options first. EpiFive's guide to resetting this PC in Windows 11 while keeping files covers that route. Use USB media when Windows will not start at all, when a reset fails, when you suspect malware, or when the drive is blank.

Also check the manufacturer's website before using Microsoft's generic media. Microsoft notes that OEM recovery images usually include hardware-specific drivers and factory apps that generic installation media may lack. On a business laptop that can mean a Wi-Fi or touchpad driver you have to hunt for after setup.

Prerequisites

Microsoft's Download Windows 11 page lists what you need to create the media:

An internet connection. Provider fees may apply, and download time depends on your speed.
A blank USB flash drive of at least 8 GB. Any content on the drive is deleted. (A blank DVD of 8 GB or more and a burner also work.)
Enough free space on the computer or drive that will hold the ISO file, if you choose to save an ISO.
A target PC with a 64-bit processor. Microsoft states that Windows 11 can only run on 64-bit CPUs, and that the PC should meet the Windows 11 device specifications. Installing on unsupported hardware may cause compatibility issues.
Administrator rights on the PC where you run the tool.
The installation language must match your current language, so choose the same one during setup.

The Media Creation Tool supports x64 processors only. If your PC runs on an Arm processor, this tool is not the right route; Microsoft lists Arm64 ISOs separately on the same download page.

If you are not sure the PC qualifies, run through the Windows 11 hardware requirements check for TPM, Secure Boot and CPU support first. If it fails, Windows 11 unsupported hardware alternatives explains your options.

Before you wipe: back up and check activation

Back up your files

Microsoft's installation media page tells you to back up your files before installing or reinstalling Windows. Copy documents, photos, browser bookmarks, mail archives and anything stored in folders such as Desktop or Downloads to an external drive or to cloud storage. Files that already sync to OneDrive or another cloud service are not affected by a cloud rebuild, but confirm the sync is complete rather than assuming it. Open the cloud service's website and check that the newest files are there.

Do not store the backup on the same physical drive you are about to wipe, and do not use the installer USB drive, because creating the media erases it.

Make a list of the apps you need to reinstall, and note any license keys for paid software. A clean install removes apps and settings.

Check activation first

Microsoft's activation page explains the two ways Windows 11 is licensed. A digital license, which Windows 11 calls a digital entitlement, activates Windows without a key and is tied to your hardware and your Microsoft account. A product key is a 25-character code, typical for PCs sold with Windows preinstalled, boxed copies and volume licenses.

To see which applies, go to Start > Settings > System > Activation. Microsoft advises confirming that Windows is activated and that your Microsoft account is linked to the license before you reinstall. With a digital license you can reinstall the same edition without entering a product key, and you sign in with the linked Microsoft account afterward so activation completes automatically.

If you use a product key instead, locate it before wiping. Microsoft also says many devices have the key embedded in firmware, and that it applies automatically if it matches the Windows version and edition you install.

Create the Windows 11 USB installer

Do this on a working Windows PC with the blank USB drive plugged in.

Open a browser and go to Microsoft's Download Windows 11 page: https://www.microsoft.com/software-download/windows11.
Find the section "Create Windows 11 Installation Media" and select Download Now. This downloads MediaCreationTool.exe.
Run the file as an administrator and accept the license terms.
On the "What do you want to do?" page, choose the option to create installation media for another PC, then select Next.
Select the language, edition and architecture. Choose the 64-bit option, and keep the language the same as the one currently on the PC you are reinstalling.
Choose USB flash drive and select Next, then pick the correct drive from the list. Check the drive letter carefully, because the drive will be erased.
Wait while the tool downloads Windows 11 and writes it to the drive. When it reports the drive is ready, select Finish.

If you would rather keep an image, the same tool can save an ISO file instead. An ISO is also what you use for a virtual machine, since no USB drive is needed there. Microsoft's download page separately offers an x64 multi-edition ISO that uses your product key to unlock the correct edition.

Stay on official sources

Only download the tool from microsoft.com. Search results and ads often point to look-alike sites offering cracked ISOs or tools bundled with unwanted software. The only file name you need is MediaCreationTool.exe from Microsoft's own page. If a site asks you to pay for the download or to disable your antivirus, close it.

Boot the target PC from the USB drive

Plug the USB drive into the PC you want to reinstall and turn it on or restart it.
If the PC does not start from the drive on its own, open the boot menu. Microsoft lists the common keys as F2, F12, Delete or Esc, but the key varies by manufacturer and shows briefly on the first screen. Alternatively, change the boot order in the BIOS or UEFI settings.
Select the USB drive. If it does not appear, Microsoft notes you may need to temporarily disable Secure Boot in firmware settings.

When setup loads, you will see the Install Windows page.

Run the installation

On the Install Windows page, confirm your language, time and keyboard settings, and select Install Windows. Setup then walks you through its screens. Two points need care:

Product key. If you are asked for a key and the PC previously had that edition activated, Microsoft says you can select I don't have a product key, which also lets you skip the prompt when reinstalling a previously activated edition. On a new device or motherboard, the same option lets you finish setup, sign in with a Microsoft account and buy a digital license from the Store afterward.
Choosing the drive. For a clean install you pick the drive that holds the old Windows and let setup remove it. Read the drive list carefully. If the PC has a second internal drive holding backups, do not select it.

The PC restarts several times. Leave the USB drive in until setup tells you to remove it or the first normal start-up screen appears.

After setup: restore normal booting and check activation

Revert the boot order

Microsoft warns that after installation you should undo any boot order changes so the internal drive boots normally. Otherwise the Install Windows page may appear again after installation. If you only used the one-time boot menu, nothing needs reverting, but unplug the USB drive anyway.

If you disabled Secure Boot to boot the drive, turn it back on in the firmware settings after setup.

Confirm activation

Open Start > Settings > System > Activation. If you had a digital license and signed in with the linked Microsoft account, Windows should show as activated. If you use a product key, select Change product key and enter it.

If activation fails after hardware changes such as a motherboard replacement, Microsoft says to link your Microsoft account to the digital license beforehand so you can use the Activation troubleshooter. If an OEM replaced the motherboard, the PC should usually reactivate on its own.

Install updates and drivers

Run Windows Update until it reports nothing pending. Then check the manufacturer's support page for any drivers Windows Update did not supply, such as graphics or touchpad drivers. Reinstall your apps and restore your files from the backup.

Troubleshooting

Problem	What to try
The PC ignores the USB drive	Open the boot menu (F2, F12, Delete or Esc, depending on the maker) or change the boot order in BIOS/UEFI.
The drive does not appear as a boot option	Temporarily disable Secure Boot, as Microsoft suggests, then re-enable it after setup.
The Install Windows page appears again after setup	The boot order still puts the USB drive first. Remove the drive and fix the boot order.
Setup does not match your language	Microsoft states the installation language must match your current language. Rebuild the media in the matching language.
Windows is not activated	Check Start > Settings > System > Activation, sign in with the Microsoft account linked to the license, or use Change product key. See Microsoft's Windows activation errors article for specific codes.
Wi-Fi or touchpad does not work	Check the manufacturer's support page for drivers; consider OEM recovery media next time.

Closing checklist

Decide a clean install is needed; try Reset this PC or a cloud rebuild if Windows still starts.
Back up files to a separate drive and verify they open.
Note your activation status and any product key.
Download the Media Creation Tool only from Microsoft's Download Windows 11 page.
Use a blank USB drive of at least 8 GB and build the installer.
Boot from the drive, run Install Windows and pick the right drive.
Remove the USB drive, fix the boot order and re-enable Secure Boot.
Confirm activation, run Windows Update, and restore your files.

References

Microsoft, Download Windows 11: https://www.microsoft.com/software-download/windows11
Microsoft Support, Create installation media for Windows: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/create-installation-media-for-windows-99a58364-8c02-206f-aa6f-40c3b507420d
Microsoft Support, Recovery options in Windows: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/recovery-options-in-windows-31ce2444-7de3-818c-d626-e3b5a3024da5
Microsoft Support, Activate Windows: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/activate-windows-c39005d4-95ee-b91e-b399-2820fda32227
Pages checked 2026-11-02.

This guide was researched and drafted with AI assistance and checked against the vendor documentation listed in its References. Read the maintained version and related guides on EpiFive.

AWS Cloud Practitioner CLF-C02 Study Guide: Domains, Free Labs and Exam Tips

epifive — Sun, 01 Nov 2026 05:14:47 +0000

The AWS Certified Cloud Practitioner (CLF-C02) exam has 65 questions in 90 minutes, a minimum passing score of 700 out of 1,000, and four domains weighted from 12% to 34%. The most efficient plan is to study from the official exam guide's task statements: Cloud Technology and Services (34%) and Security and Compliance (30%) together account for nearly two thirds of scored content.

This guide is for people new to AWS who want a structured way to prepare, such as career changers, sales and support staff, project managers, and early-career IT staff. By the end you will know exactly what the exam covers, which official free and low-cost resources to use, how to spread your study over four weeks, and what to do in the exam. All exam facts come from AWS's own exam guide and certification page, checked on 31 October 2026. Exams are revised, so confirm details on the official page before you book.

If you are deciding between this and a Microsoft fundamentals exam, read AWS Cloud Practitioner vs AZ-900: which to take first. For the next step up, see the AWS Solutions Architect Associate study guide.

Who this is for and what you will have at the end

You have a few hours a week and no requirement for prior AWS experience. After following this guide you will have a domain-by-domain checklist drawn from the official guide, a four-week schedule, a safe way to practice hands-on without surprise bills, and a clear picture of how the exam behaves.

Exam facts

Item	Detail
Level	Foundational
Questions	65 (50 scored, 15 unscored)
Duration	90 minutes
Question types	Multiple choice (one correct, three distractors) and multiple response (two or more correct from five or more options)
Passing score	700 on a scaled 100 to 1,000 score
Cost	100 USD, plus possible costs such as foreign exchange rates
Delivery	Pearson VUE testing center or online proctored
Validity	3 years
Prerequisites	None listed

The exam guide adds that unanswered questions are scored as incorrect and there is no penalty for guessing, so answer everything. Scoring is compensatory: you do not have to pass each section, only the exam as a whole. Section-level feedback on your score report is general information, and the guide advises caution when interpreting it.

For recertification, AWS lists three options: complete the AWS Cloud Quest: Recertify Cloud Practitioner course, pass the latest version of the exam, or pass an Associate or Professional exam. The certification page lists 12 languages, noting that the Italian and German versions will be retired after December 31, 2026.

What the exam covers

The official guide lists four content domains.

Domain	Weight
1. Cloud Concepts	24%
2. Security and Compliance	30%
3. Cloud Technology and Services	34%
4. Billing, Pricing, and Support	12%

The guide says it is not a comprehensive list of exam content, and that coding, designing cloud architecture, troubleshooting, implementation and load testing are out of scope for the target candidate.

Domain 1: Cloud Concepts (24%)

The four task statements are benefits of the AWS Cloud, design principles, migration, and cloud economics. Study:

The value of global infrastructure, high availability, elasticity and agility.
The six pillars of the AWS Well-Architected Framework: operational excellence, security, reliability, performance efficiency, cost optimization and sustainability, and how they differ.
The AWS Cloud Adoption Framework and migration strategies.
Fixed versus variable cost, on-premises costs, Bring Your Own License versus included licenses, rightsizing, automation and economies of scale.

Domain 2: Security and Compliance (30%)

Shared responsibility model: who is responsible for what, and how responsibility shifts depending on the service, with the guide's examples of Amazon RDS, AWS Lambda and Amazon EC2.
Governance and compliance: where to find compliance information (AWS Artifact), encryption in transit and at rest, and the roles of CloudWatch, CloudTrail and AWS Config. Know what Amazon Inspector, Security Hub, GuardDuty and Shield do.
Access management: IAM users, groups, roles and policies, least privilege, protecting the root user, tasks only the root user can perform, MFA, IAM Identity Center, federation, and storing credentials with services such as Secrets Manager. See AWS IAM basics.
Security resources: AWS WAF, Firewall Manager, Shield, GuardDuty, the AWS Marketplace for third-party security products, and Trusted Advisor.

Domain 3: Cloud Technology and Services (34%)

This is the largest domain, with eight task statements:

Deployment and operating methods: console, API, SDK, CLI and infrastructure as code, plus cloud, hybrid and on-premises models.
Global infrastructure: Regions, Availability Zones and edge locations, and when to use multiple Regions (disaster recovery, latency, data sovereignty).
Compute: EC2 instance types, containers (ECS, EKS), serverless (Fargate, Lambda), auto scaling and load balancers.
Databases: RDS, Aurora, DynamoDB, ElastiCache, and the migration tools DMS and SCT.
Networking: VPC components, network ACLs and security groups, Route 53, VPN and Direct Connect.
Storage: S3 storage classes and lifecycle policies, EBS and instance store, EFS and FSx, Storage Gateway and AWS Backup.
AI/ML and analytics: SageMaker AI, Lex, Athena, Kinesis, Glue and Amazon Quick.
Other categories: EventBridge, SNS, SQS, Amazon Connect, SES, developer tools such as CodeBuild, CodePipeline and X-Ray, end-user computing such as WorkSpaces and AppStream 2.0, Amplify, and IoT Core.

Because the exam asks you to identify the right service for a use case, build a one-line "what it is for" note for every in-scope service. The guide links the in-scope and out-of-scope AWS services lists, which tell you which services you can safely ignore.

Domain 4: Billing, Pricing, and Support (12%)

Compute purchasing options: On-Demand, Reserved Instances, Spot, Savings Plans, Dedicated Hosts, Dedicated Instances and Capacity Reservations, and when to use each. See AWS EC2 pricing explained.
Data transfer costs: incoming versus outgoing, between Regions and within a Region.
Storage options and tiers.
AWS Budgets, Cost Explorer, Pricing Calculator, Organizations consolidated billing and cost allocation tags. See AWS Budgets and billing alerts setup.
Support plans, Trusted Advisor, the AWS Health Dashboard, AWS Partner Network and technical resources such as re:Post and the Knowledge Center.

Official free and low-cost resources

AWS's certification page links these preparation resources:

Exam Prep Plan on AWS Skill Builder, a four-step plan.
Official Practice Question Set, Official Pretest and Official Practice Exam.
The exam guide itself in AWS documentation.
Hands-on practice: AWS Builder Labs, AWS Cloud Quest, AWS Jam, AWS SimuLearn and AWS Escape Room.
Digital courses to fill knowledge gaps.
AWS Training Live on Twitch for free live and on-demand training.

The certification page does not say which of these are free, so check the Skill Builder page for what your account includes before you plan around a particular resource. This article does not quote Skill Builder prices or subscription contents.

Practice safely in your own AWS account

For hands-on practice outside guided labs, AWS's Free Tier page describes a Free plan for new customers: $100 in credits immediately, with up to $100 more by exploring key services, for up to $200. On the Free plan you are not billed unless you upgrade or activate paid-only services. More than 30 services stay free within monthly usage limits. The page states that the account "closes on its own 6 months after you open it or when your credits run out, whichever comes first." Because the account closes, do not put anything you want to keep in a Free plan account. Set a budget alert if you use the paid plan.

A four-week study plan

This assumes 4 to 6 hours a week. Adjust to your schedule.

Week 1: Cloud concepts and billing. Read Domain 1 and Domain 4 task statements. Make notes on the Well-Architected pillars and the compute purchasing options. Take the official Pretest to see where you stand.

Week 2: Security. Study Domain 2. Draw the shared responsibility model for EC2, RDS and Lambda from memory. Complete a hands-on lab on IAM users, MFA and the root user.

Week 3: Services. Work through Domain 3 by category: compute, storage, databases, networking, then the rest. For each, write what it is, when to choose it, and its closest alternative.

Week 4: Practice and review. Take the Official Practice Exam under timed conditions: 65 questions in 90 minutes is about 83 seconds per question. Review every wrong answer and also the right ones you guessed. Revisit your weakest domain and re-read the in-scope services list.

Exam tips

Answer every question. Unanswered ones are scored wrong and guessing has no penalty.
Treat each question as scored. The 15 unscored questions are not marked.
Read multiple-response questions for how many answers they ask for.
Eliminate distractors. The guide notes they are plausible responses that match the content area, so look for the option that fits the scenario's exact requirement (cost, availability, security or ease).
Flag long questions and return to them, keeping time for a final pass.
If you test online, check the proctoring requirements and test your equipment ahead of time on the booking site.

Troubleshooting your preparation

You keep mixing up similar services

Make comparison tables: S3 versus EBS versus EFS; Security Groups versus network ACLs; SQS versus SNS versus EventBridge; GuardDuty versus Inspector versus Shield. Questions often turn on one distinguishing feature.

Practice scores are not improving

Review why distractors are wrong rather than memorizing answers. Then return to the task statement behind the question in the exam guide.

You are unsure whether a service is in scope

Check the in-scope and out-of-scope lists linked from the exam guide.

Unexpected charges on your AWS account

Check Billing and Cost Management, shut down any resources you created, and keep a budget alert active.

Checklist

Read the official exam guide and the in-scope services list.
Book a date to create a deadline.
Complete the four-week plan.
Take the Official Pretest first and the Official Practice Exam last.
Practice hands-on in a guided lab or a Free plan account with budget alerts.
On exam day, answer every question and manage the clock.

References

This guide was researched and drafted with AI assistance and checked against the vendor documentation listed in its References. Read the maintained version and related guides on EpiFive.

Android Phone Overheating: Causes, Fixes and When to Stop Using It

epifive — Sun, 01 Nov 2026 05:14:11 +0000

An Android phone that feels hot should be unplugged, moved somewhere cooler and left alone until it cools down. That is Google's own first instruction for Pixel phones, and Samsung's advice is the same with the addition of closing running apps. Most heat comes from a heavy task, charging at the same time, or a hot environment, and it goes away once you remove the cause.

This guide explains the usual causes, a set of fixes in order from least to most effort, what the phone does to protect itself, and the signs that mean you should stop using the phone and contact the maker. It draws on Google's Pixel help pages and Samsung's support pages, checked on 2026-10-31.

Who this is for and what you will have at the end

This is for anyone whose Android phone gets hotter than it should, whether it is a Pixel, a Samsung Galaxy or another brand. Menu names differ between makers and software versions, so the steps below name the paths Google and Samsung publish, and the general advice applies to any Android phone.

At the end you will have a cool-down routine, a short list of settings that reduce heat, a way to tell normal warmth from a problem, and a clear threshold for when to stop troubleshooting.

What counts as normal warmth

A phone gets warm when its processor, modem, screen and battery work hard. Google's Pixel help page lists the common situations: playing video, games or other media, transferring or restoring backups, recording high-definition video, tethering or using a Wi-Fi hotspot, large downloads or uploads, and setting up or restoring the phone. Doing any of these while the phone charges adds to the heat.

Samsung's support pages say much the same: processor-heavy apps such as games or GPS tracking, running many apps for long periods, the initial setup and data transfer from a previous device, and system or firmware updates all raise the temperature.

So warmth after an hour of navigation, a big restore or a long video call is expected. The problem cases are a phone that is hot when idle, hot after every charge, or too hot to hold.

Common causes

Cause	Why it heats the phone	Source
Heavy apps	Games, video, camera recording and navigation keep the processor busy	Google, Samsung
Charging while in use	The battery, charger and processor all produce heat at once	Google, Samsung
Fast or wireless charging	Samsung notes these can feel warmer	Samsung
Damaged or non-certified charger or cable	Samsung lists these as a cause	Samsung
Setup, restore, large transfers	Many files and apps are processed at once	Google, Samsung
Hotspot or poor signal	The modem works harder	Google, Samsung
Hot or enclosed places	Heat cannot escape	Google, Samsung
Software updates	Temporary extra processing	Samsung

Temperature and environment

Samsung says Galaxy devices perform best at ambient temperatures between 32 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit, and that using them outside that range can cause heat problems. Its list of causes includes sitting near a heat source, being left in a parked car on a hot day, and direct sunlight. Google likewise says to keep the phone out of direct sunlight and hot vehicles and to avoid enclosed or poorly ventilated spaces.

Step 1: Cool the phone down

Unplug the charger or wireless charging pad.
Close the apps that are running.
Move the phone out of the sun to a cooler place. Taking it out of a case is a reasonable extra step, though the official pages only say to use cases made for your model.
Do not use the phone until it has cooled down.

Let it cool in open air. A Pixel Community video guide warns against putting a hot phone in a fridge or freezer. Charge again only after the phone feels normal.

Step 2: Reduce what the phone is doing

Google's help page for Pixel phones lists the same set of changes that work on most Android phones:

Stop heavy features such as video calls, camera recording, streaming and long navigation sessions, especially while charging. You can restart them once the phone cools.
Lower the screen brightness. On a Pixel this is under Settings > Display & touch > Brightness level.
Use Wi-Fi instead of mobile data when you can.
Turn off a hotspot you are not using.

Samsung also says to turn off Wi-Fi, GPS and Bluetooth when you are not using them, and to delete unused files and apps.

Samsung Galaxy: Device care

Samsung's UK support page describes these steps, and the button is spelled "Optimise now" there (US phones typically show "Optimize now"). Menu names may differ by model and software version.

Go to Settings > Device care.
Tap Optimize now, then check the result and tap Done.
Go to Settings > Device care > Battery and turn on the Power saving switch.
Tap Background usage limits and turn on Put unused apps to sleep.

Samsung says Power saving limits network use, data sync and background location tracking. The same page mentions Light Mode, which partially reduces maximum processor speed to limit heat and save battery.

Step 3: Fix charging heat

Charging is the most common source of repeat overheating, because the heat appears on a schedule.

Use a charger and USB cable that are approved for your phone. Samsung says charging with a non-Samsung, incompatible or defective charger or cable can cause overheating, and that a damaged cable can cause heat in the charging port.
With wireless charging, remove metal objects and cards between the phone and the pad. Samsung also advises charging on a hard, flat surface.
Do not run heavy apps while the phone charges.
Google notes that using only cases and covers made for your specific Pixel model helps.

If the heat only happens with one particular charger or cable, replace that accessory first. If it happens with every accessory, move on to the software steps.

Step 4: Check software, apps and background use

Both makers recommend keeping the system and apps updated. Samsung lists updates among its fixes, and notes that an update itself can cause temporary heat while it processes.

Install pending system updates in Settings, and update apps in the Play Store.
Restart the phone.
Look at your battery usage screen for an app that uses far more than the rest. Google links its overheating page to guidance on fixing excessive battery drain, because the two problems often share causes.
Uninstall or update any app that stays near the top of that list without a reason.

If the phone is hot right after a restore or first setup, give it some time. The apps are still downloading and indexing, and the heat normally fades.

For a phone that is hot only since you installed a particular app, test it in Safe mode. The related guide Android Safe mode: remove a bad app and fix a crashing phone explains how to start the phone with third-party apps disabled and how to remove the culprit.

Step 5: Check the temperature on a Pixel

Recent Pixel phones include a built-in temperature check. Google's page says to open Settings > Battery > Battery diagnostics > Phone is very warm. The page states the feature is for Pixel 6a and later, while Google's other overheating page mentions Pixel 6 and later, so if you do not see the entry, your model may not support it.

The diagnostic reports one of four states:

State	What Google says it means
Cold	Lower than normal. Below 0 C (32 F) the phone may shut down suddenly, so let it warm up gradually
Normal	Typical for regular use
Warm	Slightly warm but working as expected. Brightness and network speeds may be reduced
Elevated	Higher than normal. The phone limits performance and pauses some features, and turns off automatically if it passes safety thresholds

What the phone does to protect itself

Slowdowns during heat are deliberate. Google says a Pixel that senses it is too hot may reduce CPU performance and charging speed, turn off the camera flash or the camera, partially or fully turn off mobile data or Wi-Fi including 5G, and enter low power mode. If the temperature keeps rising, it may show a warning, enter low power mode and turn off.

Samsung describes the same behavior on Galaxy phones. A phone may power off, close apps, pause charging or dim the display, with messages such as "Cooling down" or "Device overheating." Performance returns to normal afterward. Do not rely on a hot phone for an urgent call, because it may power off.

If a phone turns off from heat, let it cool, then restart it. If it keeps shutting off, Google says to contact Pixel support.

When to stop using it

Stop troubleshooting and contact the manufacturer when any of these apply:

The phone is still too warm to touch after you have followed the steps above. Samsung says to contact its support in that case.
It repeatedly shows overheating warnings or shuts down by itself.
The heat appeared suddenly and nothing in your routine changed.
The screen or back cover starts to lift away from the body.

Swollen battery

Google's Pixel help page on swollen batteries says a swollen battery can cause the screen to lift, that swelling alone is not considered a hazard, but that a lifted screen lets liquids and dust in and an exposed battery is more easily damaged, which can lead to overheating and possibly injury. Its guidance is:

Contact the manufacturer to start a repair, or recycle the device according to local rules.
Back up your data and factory reset the phone before sending it for repair or recycling, if the phone still works.
Place the phone on a table or countertop and leave it unused for several days so the battery drains naturally.
Do not press on the glass or back cover to push the battery back in, do not pry the phone open, do not try to repair the battery yourself, and do not throw it in household waste.

Samsung's support material tells owners to stop using a phone with a swollen battery, avoid charging it, and contact Samsung or a repair center. Check warranty coverage before you pay for a repair, because a manufacturing fault is treated differently from an aged battery. The related guide Android phone battery health: check it and improve it covers how to tell whether an aging battery is behind the heat.

Checklist

Unplug, close apps and move somewhere cool.
Do not use a fridge or freezer to cool the phone.
Lower brightness, use Wi-Fi, and turn off hotspot, GPS and Bluetooth when idle.
On a Galaxy, run Device care, turn on Power saving and put unused apps to sleep.
Use approved chargers and cables, and do not use heavy apps while charging.
Install system and app updates, then restart.
On a Pixel 6a or later, check Settings > Battery > Battery diagnostics > Phone is very warm.
Contact the manufacturer if the phone stays hot, keeps shutting off, or the screen lifts.

References

Google Pixel Phone Help, Help keep your Pixel phone from feeling too warm or hot
Google Pixel Phone Help, Check and understand your Pixel's temperature
Google Pixel Phone Help, Understand your Pixel battery
Samsung US Support, Keep your Galaxy device at its normal operating temperature
Samsung UK Support, Why is my Galaxy phone hot and how to fix it

This guide was researched and drafted with AI assistance and checked against the vendor documentation listed in its References. Read the maintained version and related guides on EpiFive.

Outlook Email Stuck in the Outbox: Fixes That Get Mail Sending Again

epifive — Sun, 01 Nov 2026 05:13:33 +0000

If an email is stuck in the Outlook Outbox, the quickest fix is to go to Send/Receive and select Work Offline so Outlook stops retrying, then open the Outbox and either delete the message or drag it to Drafts and remove its attachment. Microsoft names a large attachment as the most likely cause, and being disconnected while you click Send as the second.

This guide covers the causes in the order you are most likely to meet them, and finishes with the settings and add-in checks for messages that keep returning.

Who this is for and what you will have at the end

This is for anyone using classic Outlook for Windows, with Microsoft 365 or another account, whose message sits in the Outbox, or whose mail only goes out when you press F9. It also helps the person in a small business who is asked why "email isn't going out" from a colleague's PC.

By the end you will have cleared the stuck message, sent it again, and checked the settings that cause repeat problems. The steps on Microsoft's support pages are written for classic Outlook; where a step is for a different version, this article says so.

Why messages get stuck in the Outbox

When you select Send, Outlook places the message in the Outbox folder and then hands it to the mail server. A message that stays there has not completed that hand-off. Microsoft's support article on stuck messages gives two causes:

A large attachment. Microsoft describes this as the most likely cause.
No connection when you clicked Send. The message waits until Outlook is connected again.

Microsoft's Learn troubleshooting content adds a third:

Send immediately when connected is turned off. The message stays in the Outbox until you start a Send/Receive manually, for example by pressing F9.

Add-ins are a further possible cause. Microsoft's pages above do not list them for this symptom, but safe mode starts Outlook with add-ins turned off, so it is a cheap test (Step 5).

The table below maps the symptom to the section that fixes it.

What you see	Most likely cause	Go to
One message stays in the Outbox, others send	Large attachment	Step 2
Everything stays in the Outbox, Work Offline button is blue	Outlook is disconnected	Step 1
Mail sends only after pressing F9	Send immediately when connected is off	Step 4
Sending worked until an add-in was installed	Add-in interference	Step 5

Before you start

Note which message is stuck and its recipients, so you can resend it if you delete it.
Check that the PC is online by opening a web page. If the PC has no internet, fix that first; the Outbox will clear once Outlook can connect.

Step 1: Check Work Offline

If Outlook is set to Work Offline, nothing sends.

Select the Send/Receive tab.
Look at the Work Offline button. If it is blue, Outlook is disconnected.
Select it once. The button turns white, which means Outlook is online again.
Select Send All.

This is the exact procedure Microsoft gives for sending when disconnected. If the messages leave the Outbox, you are done. If the Work Offline button turns blue again by itself, look at the network connection and at Step 5.

Step 2: Clear a message stuck on a large attachment

If one message refuses to leave while others are fine, handle it directly. Microsoft's steps are:

Select Send/Receive > Work Offline to pause sending. This stops Outlook retrying while you work on the message.
In the Navigation Pane, select Outbox.
Choose one of these options:
- Delete the message. Select it and press Delete. Use this when you can recreate it.
- Remove the attachment. Drag the message to Drafts, double-click it to open it, select the attachment and press Delete.
If Outlook says it is transmitting the message, close Outlook and wait a moment for it to exit. If it will not close, press Ctrl+Alt+Delete, open Task Manager, go to the Processes tab, select outlook.exe and select End Process.
Reopen Outlook and repeat steps 2 and 3 if the message is still there.
Select Send/Receive > Work Offline again to turn it off and return to online mode.

After this, send the file another way: attach a smaller file, or upload it to OneDrive and share a link instead. Microsoft recommends the OneDrive link approach for large files on its Outlook.com sending page.

How big is too big?

The limit depends on the account and the client. For Microsoft 365 mailboxes, Microsoft's Exchange Online limits page (updated October 2026) lists these defaults:

Client or setting	Limit
Message size, Outlook	150 MB
Message size, Outlook on the web	112 MB
Message size, Outlook for iOS and Android	33 MB
File attachment size, Outlook	150 MB
Number of file attachments	250

The page states that message size limits include attachments, that administrators can configure them up, down or per user, and that some email clients may have lower limits. A message above the limit is not delivered and the sender receives a non-delivery report (NDR). That is different from a message that sits in the Outbox, but the same advice applies: reduce the size. Also remember the recipient's own mail system may reject large messages even when yours accepts them.

For Outlook.com accounts, Microsoft's support page says to remove an attachment over 25 MB, and either attach a smaller file or put the file on OneDrive and attach a link.

Step 3: Send again and confirm

Once Work Offline is off:

Select Send/Receive > Send/Receive All Folders, or press F9.
Watch the Outbox. The message should disappear within moments, and a copy should appear in Sent Items.
If you deleted the message, create a new one with the smaller attachment or the OneDrive link.

If the Outbox is empty and the Sent Items copy exists, the send worked. If you use an Outlook.com account, Microsoft also suggests checking whether the stuck message is in Drafts or the Outbox, and emptying the Junk Email folder if the mailbox is full, then trying again.

Step 4: Fix messages that wait for a manual Send/Receive

If every message sits in the Outbox until you press F9 or select Send/Receive, the cause is a setting. Microsoft's Learn article on this symptom says it happens when Send immediately when connected is not enabled.

In Outlook, select File > Options.
Select Advanced.
In the Send and receive section, select Send immediately when connected.
Select OK.

If the option is grayed out, Group Policy is managing it. You cannot change it yourself; ask your administrator to remove or change the policy.

For administrators: the registry value behind the setting

Microsoft documents that this option maps to a registry value, so it can be set by an administrator or a policy. The value is a DWORD named Send Mail Immediately, and a value of 0 turns the behavior off.

Key:    HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Office\<x.0>\Outlook\Options\Mail
Policy: HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Policies\Microsoft\Office\<x.0>\Outlook\Options\Mail
DWORD:  Send Mail Immediately
Value:  0   (messages wait for a manual Send/Receive)

In these paths, <x.0> is the Outlook version. Microsoft states that 16.0 covers Outlook 2016, Outlook 2019 and Outlook for Microsoft 365. Prefer the Outlook option or your normal policy tooling over hand-editing the registry, and back up before any registry change.

Step 5: Test for an add-in problem with safe mode

If the Outbox keeps filling after the steps above, test whether an add-in is responsible. Safe mode starts Outlook with add-ins turned off.

Close Outlook.
Right-click the Start button and select Run.
Enter the following and select OK:

Outlook.exe /safe

If Windows cannot find the command, enter the full path to Outlook using the Microsoft Office folder for your version, under Program Files.
Choose your profile if asked, then try sending a short test message to yourself.

If the test message sends in safe mode but not normally, an add-in is the likely cause. Disable your add-ins one at a time in normal mode, testing after each, until the problem returns, and prefer disabling over removing. Microsoft's safe mode page links to a separate article that covers disabling add-ins; follow that article for the exact steps on your Outlook build.

If the message does not send even in safe mode, the cause is elsewhere: the account, the mailbox, the attachment or the connection.

Verification

Use this short test to confirm everything is fixed.

Confirm the Work Offline button on the Send/Receive tab is white.
Confirm Send immediately when connected is selected under File > Options > Advanced.
Send a message with no attachment to yourself.
Confirm it leaves the Outbox at once and arrives in the Inbox.
Send a message with a modest attachment, and a link to a OneDrive file, and confirm both leave the Outbox.

If all three pass, the problem was the offline state, the setting or the oversized attachment, and the Outbox should stay clear.

Troubleshooting

Outlook says it is transmitting the message and will not let you delete it

The message is mid-send. Close Outlook and wait a moment. If it does not exit, open Task Manager, select outlook.exe on the Processes tab and select End Process, then restart Outlook and delete or move the message. This is the same fallback Microsoft documents.

Messages stay in the Outbox with an Exchange account in Cached Exchange mode

Microsoft's older Outlook guide for Outlook 2007 to 2013 describes a case where messages do not send immediately for an Exchange account in Cached Exchange mode and the problem does not occur in safe mode. The cause there is a LoadTransportProviders DWORD with a value of 1 under the Outlook Preferences registry key, and the permanent fix is to delete that value. This applies to those older versions; on current Microsoft 365 builds, start with the earlier steps instead.

Outlook hangs while loading the profile

A Microsoft page from 2019 describes a service issue that was fixed on June 25, 2019 and gives a workaround for a hang at profile load. It is unlikely to apply to a current build, so skip it unless the symptom matches exactly.

Still stuck after all steps

If messages stay stuck after the steps above, ask your Microsoft 365 administrator to look at the mailbox and at any third-party add-ins or security software that scans outgoing mail. If your issue is a sign-in prompt rather than a stuck message, see Stop Outlook asking for your password again and again. For problems with Outlook finding the right server, see Outlook Autodiscover troubleshooting for Microsoft 365.

Checklist

Work Offline is off (the button is white) and you have selected Send All.
You removed or deleted the message that was stuck on a large attachment, and shared the file through OneDrive instead.
Send immediately when connected is selected under File > Options > Advanced.
You tested in safe mode with Outlook.exe /safe and disabled any add-in that blocked sending.
A test message and a message with a modest attachment both left the Outbox.

References

This guide was researched and drafted with AI assistance and checked against the vendor documentation listed in its References. Read the maintained version and related guides on EpiFive.

Android Safe Mode: Find a Bad App and Fix a Crashing Phone

epifive — Sat, 31 Oct 2026 05:14:50 +0000

If your Android phone keeps restarting, freezing, crashing or running slowly, boot it into Safe Mode and use it normally. Safe Mode starts the phone with only essential system software, so apps you downloaded do not run. If the problem disappears, one of those apps is the likely cause, and you can remove recently installed apps one at a time, restarting normally after each, until the problem is gone. If the problem continues in Safe Mode, an app is probably not responsible.

Who this is for and what you will have at the end

This guide is for Android users, mainly on Google Pixel and Samsung Galaxy phones, whose phone has become unstable and who suspect an app. By the end you will have tested the theory, found and removed the app, and exited Safe Mode safely.

Safe Mode steps differ by manufacturer, and Google's own Android help page says restarting in Safe Mode varies by phone. This article gives steps from Google's Pixel help page and Samsung's support page. For other brands, check the maker's support site.

Before you start

Screenshot your Home screen. Google says Safe Mode removes some Home screen widgets, so take a screenshot first and re-add them after you exit.
Make a list of recent changes. Note the apps you installed or updated just before the problems began. This list is your suspect list.
Back up what matters. Safe Mode is not a reset, but you may uninstall apps, so make sure your photos and data are backed up. See Android backup and restore for a new phone.
Free some space if storage is full. A full phone can cause slowness and crashes that look like app problems. See phone storage full: free up space on Android and iPhone.

Boot into Safe Mode

Google Pixel

From Google's Pixel Phone Help page on rebooting to Safe Mode:

If the phone is on, Pixel 6 or later (including Pixel Fold):

Press and hold Power and Volume up for a few seconds.
Touch and hold Power off or Restart, then tap OK.

If the phone is on, Pixel 5a or earlier:

Press and hold Power for a few seconds.
Touch and hold Power off, then tap OK.

If the phone is off, all models:

Press the power button.
When the animation starts, press and hold Volume down until the animation ends.

Confirm that "Safe mode" appears at the bottom of the screen. Google's page notes airplane mode turns on automatically when you enter Safe Mode, and recommends turning it off if you need GPS, Wi-Fi or calls.

Samsung Galaxy

From Samsung's support page for Galaxy devices:

Swipe down from the top of the screen with two fingers, slightly apart, to open the Quick Settings panel.
Tap the Power icon in the top right corner.
Touch and hold the Power off icon for a few seconds.
Tap the Safe mode icon. The phone restarts into Safe Mode.
Look for "Safe mode" in the bottom left corner of the screen. If it is not there, repeat the steps.

Samsung notes that screens and settings can vary by wireless carrier, software version and model. If your phone does not match, search Samsung's support site for your model.

Other brands

Google's Android Help says the method varies by phone, so look up your manufacturer's instructions. A common pattern is a power menu long press, but confirm for your device rather than guessing.

Test whether an app is the cause

Use the phone the way you normally would, in the situation where the problem happened: opening the same apps, scrolling, taking photos, charging.
Watch for the symptom. Google lists restarting on its own, freezing, crashing and running slowly as the problems Safe Mode helps with, and Samsung adds battery drain and system errors.
Decide:
- Problem gone in Safe Mode: a downloaded app is the likely cause. Continue to the next section.
- Problem still there: Google says an app is not the cause. Samsung says the core system may be at fault and that a more thorough cleanup or a reset of app preferences and settings outside Safe Mode may be needed. Exit Safe Mode and go to the troubleshooting section.

Only apps that came with the phone and essential system software run in Safe Mode, so downloaded apps will look greyed out or not launch. That is expected.

Find and remove the bad app

Google's instructions are to remove recently downloaded apps one at a time, restarting the phone normally after each removal to check whether the problem is gone. When you find the culprit, reinstall the other apps you removed. Samsung adds that in Safe Mode you can uninstall apps with blank names, random characters, or that you do not recognize or have previously identified as problematic.

A practical routine:

List apps in the order you installed or last updated them. Start with the newest.
Remove the first suspect. Google Play Help describes this route: open the Google Play Store app, tap your profile icon at the top right, tap Manage apps & devices, tap Manage, select the app and tap Uninstall. Google notes some of these steps work only on Android 13 and up. You can also uninstall from your Home screen or apps drawer if your phone offers that option, and if you see only Uninstall updates, the app cannot be fully removed.
Restart the phone normally, which takes it out of Safe Mode, and use it as before.
If the problem is still there, enter Safe Mode again only if needed, and remove the next suspect. If you removed several apps in a batch, reinstall them one at a time and test after each.
When the problem stops, you have your culprit. Reinstall the other apps you removed, and leave the bad one off until it is fixed.

Google also suggests keeping a list of apps you force stop to help identify the cause.

Apps you cannot delete

Google's help notes that some system apps cannot be deleted, and that on some phones you can turn them off instead. Ask your manufacturer for that process. Do not disable system apps casually, since that can cause other problems.

Check Play Protect

If the suspicious app is unfamiliar, Google Play Protect may help. Google says it checks apps for harmful behavior, may warn you about or disable risky apps, and periodically scans your device. To reach its settings: open the Google Play Store app, tap your profile icon at the top right, tap Play Protect, then tap Settings, where you can see the Scan apps with Play Protect option. Google recommends keeping it on. Google's page does not describe a manual scan button, so rely on the periodic scanning.

Exit Safe Mode

Pixel

Pixel 6 or later (including Fold): Press and hold Power and Volume up for a few seconds, then tap Restart.
Pixel 5a or earlier: Press and hold Power for about 30 seconds, or until the phone restarts.

Samsung Galaxy

Restart the phone, and it reboots normally.
Or swipe down from the top of the screen to open notifications, tap the Safe mode is on notification, then tap Turn off.

Afterward, re-add any Home screen widgets using your screenshot, and turn airplane mode off if it is still on.

If Safe Mode does not fix it

If the problem continues in Safe Mode, work through these in order. Google's Pixel help also has separate pages for phones that restart, crash or freeze.

Install pending system and app updates. Use your phone's Settings search to find the system update screen, since labels vary by maker.
Check storage and battery health. Low free space and a degraded battery can both cause instability. See Android phone battery health: check and improve.
Clear cache or data for a specific app. Samsung's page suggests a more thorough cleanup or a reset of app preferences and settings outside Safe Mode. Clearing storage permanently deletes an app's data, so back up first.
Back up, then consider a factory reset. Do this only after backing up, and treat it as a last resort.
Contact the manufacturer or carrier. If the phone still fails, it may be hardware. Check warranty status before paying for repairs.

Troubleshooting Safe Mode itself

Symptom	Likely cause	Fix
Button combination does not enter Safe Mode	Different method for your model	Try the power-menu method, or search your manufacturer's support page
"Safe mode" label does not appear	Boot did not complete in Safe Mode	Repeat the steps; on Pixel, hold Volume down until the animation ends
Phone stays in Safe Mode after restart	A restart did not clear it, or a button is stuck	Use the exit steps for your device; check that a case is not pressing Volume down
No mobile data, Wi-Fi or GPS	Airplane mode turns on in Safe Mode on Pixel	Turn airplane mode off
Widgets missing after exit	Safe Mode removes some widgets	Re-add them from your screenshot
Cannot uninstall an app	System app, or device policy	Disable it if allowed, or ask your manufacturer or IT admin
Problem returns days later	Another app, or an update broke something	Repeat the one-at-a-time process and check for app updates

Summary checklist

[ ] Screenshot of Home screen widgets taken
[ ] List of recently installed or updated apps written down
[ ] Important data backed up
[ ] Booted into Safe Mode and confirmed the Safe mode label
[ ] Used the phone normally and noted whether the problem occurred
[ ] If the problem stopped, removed recent apps one at a time, restarting normally after each
[ ] Reinstalled the apps that were not the cause
[ ] Exited Safe Mode, re-added widgets and turned airplane mode off
[ ] If the problem continued, moved on to updates, storage and other troubleshooting

References

This guide was researched and drafted with AI assistance and checked against the vendor documentation listed in its References. Read the maintained version and related guides on EpiFive.

Android Notifications Delayed or Missing: Battery Optimization Fixes

epifive — Sat, 31 Oct 2026 05:14:15 +0000

If Android notifications arrive late or not at all, the cause is usually one of three things: the app's notification permission or a Do Not Disturb mode is blocking it, Android's battery management is limiting the app's background activity, or your phone maker's extra power-saving layer is putting the app to sleep. Work through them in that order. For apps you cannot afford to miss, such as WhatsApp, Gmail or a calendar, setting battery use to unrestricted fixes most delays.

Who this is for and what you will have at the end

This guide is for anyone whose Android phone shows alerts only after you unlock it, or never shows some of them. It applies to Google Pixel phones and to Samsung Galaxy phones, with notes for other makers. At the end you will have verified that notifications are allowed, that no mode is silencing them, that the apps you care about are exempt from aggressive battery limits, and that you know how to test the result.

Menu names differ between phone makers and Android versions. The paths below come from Google's Pixel help pages and, for Samsung, from the DontKillMyApp guide, which itself notes that layouts change often. If a label is missing on your phone, use the search box at the top of Settings and look for "battery" or "sleeping".

Why Android delays notifications

Understanding the mechanism helps you pick the right fix. Android's developer documentation describes two battery-saving features that matter here.

Doze. When the device is idle on battery, Doze suspends network access, ignores wake locks and defers standard alarms until a maintenance window. Background jobs scheduled through the system scheduler also do not run.
App Standby. Apps you have not used recently have their background network activity deferred.

Google's guidance for app developers is that time-sensitive, user-visible notifications should be sent as Firebase Cloud Messaging messages of the "RemoteNotification" type, which can wake the app even in Doze or App Standby. Non-urgent messages are marked as background sync and, in Google's words, may be delayed or throttled to protect battery.

On top of this, Android sorts apps into standby buckets: Active, Working set, Frequent, Rare and Restricted. The buckets limit how often an app's jobs and alarms can run. The Restricted bucket is the harshest. According to Google's documentation, jobs there run once a day in a 10-minute batch, and the app gets one alarm per day. Android 13 and later can move an app there if you do not interact with it for 8 days, and apps you have designated as unrestricted in system settings are exempt from that move.

Two practical consequences follow:

An app you open every day is usually fine. An app you rarely open but expect alerts from, such as a bank, a delivery service or a rarely used chat app, is the likeliest to be throttled.
An app is promoted to the Active bucket when you tap one of its notifications. Swiping a notification away does not count.

Beyond stock Android, many manufacturers add their own limits. DontKillMyApp, a site that tracks this behavior, ranks Samsung, Xiaomi, OnePlus and Huawei among the most aggressive at stopping background apps, and rates Google's own Android and Nokia at the lowest level. That is why the same app can behave well on a Pixel and badly on another brand.

Step 1: Rule out the simple causes

Do these first because they take two minutes and fix more cases than people expect.

Check the app's notification permission

Open Settings and go to Notifications or Apps, then pick the app.
Open its notification settings and confirm notifications are on.
Check each notification category. Many apps, WhatsApp and Gmail included, split alerts into channels such as messages, groups and promotions. A channel set to silent or minimized will not pop up on screen.

On recent Android versions, an app asks for notification permission the first time it runs. If you tapped "Don't allow" once, the app stays blocked until you turn it on here.

Check Do Not Disturb and other modes

On a Pixel, Google's help page describes the controls this way:

Open Settings, tap Modes, then tap Do Not Disturb. If it shows as on, alerts from apps you have not allowed are filtered.
To allow exceptions, open Settings, tap Modes and select the mode you want to change.
Under Notification filters, choose what to block or allow:
- People to allow or block calls, messages or conversations. You can also turn on Allow repeat callers, which lets a call through if the same person calls twice within 15 minutes.
- Apps to choose which apps can send you notifications.
- Alarms & other interruptions for alarms, media, touch sounds, reminders and calendar events.

If a mode has a schedule, it can switch on by itself at night or during a calendar event and stay on longer than you expect. Open the mode and look at its schedule. Google also notes that critical notifications, such as system security alerts, still appear regardless of these settings.

On other phones the same feature may be called Do Not Disturb under Sound or Notifications, with an Apps or "Exceptions" list. Make sure the apps you care about are in it.

Look at connectivity

A notification cannot arrive without a connection. If you use a battery saver that also limits mobile data, or a VPN that drops when the screen is off, alerts will queue until the phone reconnects. Turn off Battery Saver temporarily and see whether the delay disappears. If it does, the next section is where you need to work.

Step 2: Set the app to unrestricted battery use

Android lets you choose how each app is treated in the background. The names are usually Unrestricted, Optimized and Restricted. Optimized is the default for most apps. Restricted limits background activity and can delay notifications. Unrestricted lets the app run in the background without limits, which can cost more battery.

On most Android phones the path is:

Open Settings, then Apps.
Select the app, for example WhatsApp or Gmail.
Tap App battery usage or Battery.
Choose Unrestricted.

On some Pixel builds the screen shows a single switch labeled Allow background usage above the three options, and turning it off is roughly the same as Restricted. Make sure it is on, then select the option you want. Some users report this setting reverting to Optimized after a few hours, but Google has not documented that behavior, so verify it again the next day.

Android also keeps the older list of exemptions. Google's documentation describes it as Settings > Battery > Battery Optimization, where the list of apps can be switched to all apps and an individual app can be set to not be optimized. If your phone has this list, check there too, since it is the setting that exempts the app from Doze and App Standby restrictions.

Apply this to a handful of apps only. Exempting everything defeats the purpose of battery management and drains the phone.

What not to expect

Google Play policy restricts which apps may ask for the exemption. Instant messaging and chat apps that can use Firebase Cloud Messaging are not supposed to need it. In practice that means well-built messaging apps should deliver alerts without your help, and the problem lies in the phone's restrictions. Setting unrestricted is still a legitimate user choice, because you are deciding for yourself, not the app asking.

Step 3: Samsung Galaxy fixes

Samsung adds its own sleeping layer. The DontKillMyApp Samsung page gives these steps, and notes that labels vary by model and One UI version.

Wake the app and stop automatic sleeping

Open Settings, then Battery (on some phones Device care, then Battery).
Look for Background usage limits. Check the lists inside it, including the sleeping apps, deep sleeping apps and never sleeping apps lists.
Remove your app from the sleeping and deep sleeping lists, and add it to the Never sleeping apps list.
Turn off Put unused apps to sleep and Auto-disable unused apps. DontKillMyApp warns that otherwise an app may be put back to sleep after about three days even if you woke it manually.

On older versions of the same layout, the path is Device care > Battery > App power management, with the same toggle and lists.

Use Don't optimize

DontKillMyApp lists this path for Android 11 on Samsung: Settings > Apps > Your app > Battery > Battery optimization, switch the list to All apps, find the app and choose Don't optimize. The same site also lists turning off Adaptive battery under Battery > More battery settings as a step for Android 11. Adaptive battery learns which apps you use and restricts the rest. Turning it off affects every app, so try the per-app steps first and leave it for last.

Step 4: Other brands

The pattern is similar elsewhere, but the names differ. Xiaomi, OnePlus, Huawei and others usually add an autostart or "background activity" switch in addition to the Android battery setting. The DontKillMyApp site has a page per manufacturer with current paths. Check the page for your brand rather than guessing, and treat any path as a starting point that may have moved in a recent update.

A short checklist that works on most of them:

Allow the app to run in the background or start automatically.
Remove it from any list of apps that are put to sleep or optimized.
Lock the app in the recent apps screen if your phone offers that option, so cleaning tools do not close it.
Do not swipe the app away from the recents screen repeatedly to "close" it. On some brands, a swipe-away stops the app until you open it again.

Verify the fix

Do not rely on waiting for a real message. Test it on purpose.

Send yourself a message from another device or ask a friend to send one.
Lock the phone and leave it untouched on a table for at least 30 minutes, long enough for Doze to start. Use a phone that is not charging, since Doze applies on battery.
Send the message and watch when the alert appears.
Repeat the next morning, after a night idle.

Developers can force these states with Android Debug Bridge, and you can use the same commands to test. This works from a computer with USB debugging enabled:

adb shell dumpsys deviceidle force-idle
adb shell dumpsys deviceidle unforce
adb shell dumpsys battery reset

The first command makes the device behave as if it has entered Doze, the second leaves it, and the third resets the battery state if you changed it. To see which standby bucket an app is in:

adb shell am get-standby-bucket com.whatsapp

Google's documentation says the system throttles an app whenever its bucket value is higher than the Active value of 10, so a result well above 10 on an app you rely on suggests it is being limited. Replace the package name with the one for your app.

Troubleshooting

Symptom	Likely cause	What to try
No alert from one app only	App permission or notification channel off	Recheck the app's notification settings and each category
Alerts only when you pick up the phone	Doze or restricted battery use	Set the app to Unrestricted
Alerts stop after a few days	Sleeping app feature (Samsung)	Turn off Put unused apps to sleep and add the app to Never sleeping apps
Alerts stop after an update	Settings reset by the update	Recheck battery and sleeping lists
No alerts at night	A scheduled mode	Open the mode and review its schedule
Alerts delayed on Wi-Fi only	Network or VPN dropping when idle	Test on mobile data, and check the router and VPN settings
Calls do not ring in Do Not Disturb	Exceptions not set	Add People or repeat callers under the mode

If one specific app is still late after all of this, the cause may be the app, not the phone. Check that it is up to date, that you are signed in, and that its own in-app notification settings are on. As a last resort, sign out and back in so the app registers with the notification service again, or reinstall it, making sure you have a backup first. Our guide to Android backup and restore explains how.

Keep battery life reasonable

Unrestricted settings cost battery, so be selective.

Keep the exemption to messaging, email, calendar and safety apps.
Leave games, shopping and social apps on Optimized.
If battery life suffers after your changes, check which app uses the most in the battery screen and revisit it. The article on checking and improving Android battery health covers that.

Summary checklist

Confirm notifications are enabled for the app and every category.
Check Do Not Disturb or any mode, and its schedule, and add exceptions.
Set the app to Unrestricted in app battery usage.
On Samsung, remove it from sleeping lists, add it to Never sleeping apps and turn off automatic sleep options.
On other brands, enable autostart or background activity from the maker's settings.
Test with a locked, idle phone and recheck after each system update.

References

Android Developers, Optimize for Doze and App Standby: https://developer.android.com/training/monitoring-device-state/doze-standby
Android Developers, App Standby Buckets: https://developer.android.com/topic/performance/appstandby
Google Pixel Help, Use Do Not Disturb and Modes on your Pixel phone: https://support.google.com/pixelphone/answer/6111295
DontKillMyApp, background app restrictions by manufacturer: https://dontkillmyapp.com/
DontKillMyApp, Samsung: https://dontkillmyapp.com/samsung

This guide was researched and drafted with AI assistance and checked against the vendor documentation listed in its References. Read the maintained version and related guides on EpiFive.

Daylight Saving Time Ends Nov 1, 2026: Fix Wrong Clocks and Outlook Times

epifive — Sat, 31 Oct 2026 05:13:39 +0000

Daylight saving time ends in the United States at 2:00 a.m. local time on Sunday, November 1, 2026, when clocks move back one hour. Phones and PCs with automatic time turned on will change by themselves, and the fix for a device that does not is almost always to switch the automatic settings back on and check the time zone.

This guide shows where those settings are on iPhone and Windows 11, how to check that Outlook shows meetings at the right time, and what to do about the few known quirks around the changeover.

Who this is for and what you will have at the end

This is for anyone who wants to be sure the phone, PC and calendar agree on the time before the clocks go back, or who is looking at a device that is an hour off right now. It also suits the person in a small office who gets the "my meeting is at the wrong time" message every year.

By the end you will know what changes on November 1, where the automatic time settings live on iPhone and Windows 11, how to read the time zone and display settings in Outlook, and which problems are really a time zone setting rather than a bug. The article does not cover Android phones or Teams, because it only includes steps that were checked against official pages while writing.

What actually changes on November 1, 2026

According to the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST), daylight saving time ends on November 1, 2026, at 2:00 a.m. local time. The rule is the first Sunday of November. At that moment clocks move from 2:00 a.m. back to 1:00 a.m., so the hour from 1:00 to 2:00 a.m. happens twice.

Not everywhere changes. NIST lists Hawaii, American Samoa, Guam, Puerto Rico, the Virgin Islands and Arizona as places that do not observe daylight saving time, with the Navajo Indian Reservation as the exception because it does observe it. If you live in one of these places, your devices should simply stay on their usual time zone.

Situation	What should happen on November 1
iPhone with Set Automatically on	Clock moves back an hour on its own
Windows 11 with Set time automatically on	Clock moves back an hour on its own
Device set to a time zone that observes DST, in Arizona or Hawaii	Wrong: it will shift when it should not
Device with time set by hand	Does not follow the rules, so you may have to correct it yourself

The practical takeaway: automatic settings do the work. Manual settings are where almost every wrong-clock problem comes from.

Check the clock on iPhone

Apple's support article on changing the time or time zone describes the steps for a device that shows the wrong time. Work through them in this order.

Turn on automatic time

Make sure the iPhone is connected to the internet.
Install the latest iOS update. Apple lists this as an early step.
Open Settings > General > Date & Time.
Turn on Set Automatically.

If Set Automatically is dimmed, Apple says it may be unavailable with your carrier or in your country or region. A Screen Time passcode or a corporate profile with device restrictions can also dim it. On a work phone, that restriction is set by whoever manages the device, so you cannot change it from the phone.

Restart if a time zone message appears

If a message says updated time zone information is available, Apple says to restart the iPhone, and any paired Apple Watch. Do this rather than dismissing the message.

Let the phone use its location for the time zone

Open Settings > Privacy & Security > Location Services.
Scroll to the bottom and tap System Services.
Turn on Setting Time Zone.

This lets the iPhone use its current location to work out the right time zone. If it is off, the phone cannot use your location to choose the time zone.

Set the time zone by hand when automatic does not work

Open Settings > General > Date & Time.
Turn off Set Automatically.
Tap Time Zone and enter a city in the time zone you need.

Choose a city in the time zone you actually live in. A city in a place that does not observe daylight saving time, such as one in Arizona, can look right on one date and be an hour out on another.

You can also tap the date to change the date and time manually. Apple advises against changing the clock by hand to alter app behavior, such as game timers.

Check anything the iPhone syncs with

Apple notes that if the time is wrong after you sync with a Mac, you should check the date and time settings on the Mac. A Mac with a wrong clock can push the wrong time to a connected device in that situation.

Check the clock on Windows 11

Microsoft's article on time, date and time zone settings in Windows gives the path: Start > Settings > Time & language > Date & time.

Automatic settings

Turn on Set time automatically to let Windows keep the date and time.
Turn on Set time zone automatically to let Windows choose the time zone. Microsoft says daylight saving time is set automatically when this is on.

For most home and office PCs, turning on both is the whole fix.

When you set the time zone by hand

Turn off Set time zone automatically.
Pick the zone from the Time zone drop-down.
Turn on Adjust for daylight saving time automatically.

Microsoft says that if you turn this last setting off, you may need to set the time manually, so leave it on in a place that observes daylight saving time. In Arizona, where most of the state does not observe it, choose a time zone that matches rather than a DST-observing zone with adjustment off.

Set the time manually

If the time is still wrong, turn off Set time automatically, then select Change next to the date and time option, enter the values and confirm. Treat this as a temporary measure, because a manually set clock will not follow the rules on its own.

If the options are greyed out

A work or school device may be managed by an administrator who controls time settings. Check with whoever runs the device before trying to work around it. Nothing in the Microsoft page covers these managed cases, so the right move is to ask the administrator.

Check Outlook meeting times

Outlook stores meeting times in UTC and shows them in each person's own time zone. Microsoft's page on time zone settings in Outlook says exactly this. A meeting at 10:00 a.m. Eastern appears as 7:00 a.m. for an attendee set to Pacific time. When a time looks wrong, the usual cause is that one person's device or calendar is on the wrong time zone, not that the invitation is faulty.

Confirm the calendar's time zone

The menu path depends on which Outlook you use.

Outlook version	Where to look
New Outlook for Windows	Settings > Calendar > View, then Display my calendar in time zone
Outlook on the web	Settings > Calendar > View, then Display my calendar in time zone
Classic Outlook for Windows	File > Options > Calendar, then Time zones

In the new Outlook and Outlook on the web, choose the zone, add an optional label and select Save. If your organization has restricted the new Outlook, see New Outlook for Windows admin controls for how admin controls work.

Show a second time zone

A second time zone is useful when you work with people in another part of the country. In the new Outlook and Outlook on the web, select Add time zone under Settings > Calendar > View, search for a city under Other time zones, check Show in calendar and select Save. In classic Outlook, select File > Options > Calendar and choose Show a second time zone.

Microsoft notes that the second time zone appears only in Day or Week view. Classic Outlook in current Microsoft 365 versions supports three time zones, while Outlook 2016 and Outlook 2019 LTSC support two.

Know the time bar quirk on changeover day

Microsoft documents a known issue with the multiple time zones feature. When DST begins or ends on different dates in each time zone, or one zone does not observe DST, the time bar can show the wrong time difference on the first and last day of DST. Events on that day and on later days in the same view can then look as if they are scheduled at the wrong time.

Microsoft's example involves Eastern Time and London time. The article's scenario is any pair of zones whose changeover dates differ, or where one zone has no DST. The workaround is to use a Calendar view that does not display the day when DST starts or ends. Since DST ends on a Sunday, the Work Week view (Monday to Friday) avoids it. For the new Outlook for Windows and Outlook on the web, using Week view with Sunday as the first day also avoids the issue. Microsoft says that second workaround is being rolled out gradually and may not be available in your organization yet.

The next week's view shows the correct difference, which tells you the underlying meeting data is fine.

A note on future-year meetings

A separate Microsoft article, now archived, explains that after a country changes its time zone or daylight saving rules, some recurring meetings scheduled for the next year may show the wrong time in classic Outlook. The cause is that Outlook does not apply time zone rules for recurring meetings until the year the change takes effect. Microsoft's listed workarounds are to wait until that year starts or to view the calendar in Outlook on the web, which is not affected. This applies when rules change, such as when a country drops daylight saving. It is not what happens in an ordinary autumn change.

Troubleshooting

One person sees the meeting an hour off, everyone else is correct

Check that person's device first. On the iPhone, look at Settings > General > Date & Time. On Windows, look at Settings > Time & language > Date & time. Then check the Outlook calendar's time zone using the table above. The meeting is stored in UTC, so the display is almost always the thing to fix.

The clock is correct but the time zone label is wrong

This happens when someone travels or sets a zone by hand and forgets. Turn the automatic time zone setting back on, or choose the right zone from the list.

A device in Arizona or Hawaii changes an hour

The device is set to a time zone that observes daylight saving. Change it to a zone that matches your location. On Windows, check that you did not pick a DST-observing zone and then turn off Adjust for daylight saving time automatically, which can leave the clock wrong for part of the year.

The automatic setting is dimmed

On iPhone, Apple names carrier or regional limits, a Screen Time passcode, or a corporate profile with device restrictions. On a managed Windows PC, an administrator may control the setting. In both cases the change has to be made by whoever manages the device or profile.

The 1:00 a.m. hour looks wrong in logs or schedules

Because the 1:00 a.m. hour repeats, a job or entry stamped with a local time in that hour is ambiguous. If you review logs or scheduled tasks from that night, prefer UTC timestamps over local times.

Checklist before the clocks go back

Confirm the date: Sunday, November 1, 2026, at 2:00 a.m. local time.
iPhone: Set Automatically is on under Settings > General > Date & Time.
iPhone: Setting Time Zone is on under Settings > Privacy & Security > Location Services > System Services.
Windows 11: Set time automatically and Set time zone automatically are on under Settings > Time & language > Date & time.
Outlook: the calendar's time zone is correct under Settings > Calendar > View or File > Options > Calendar.
If you view two time zones, use Work Week view on November 1 or after to avoid the time bar issue.
If you are in Arizona, Hawaii, Puerto Rico or another place that does not observe DST, check that no device uses a DST-observing zone.
Restart a device that shows an updated time zone information message.

For more everyday fixes in this series, see Wi-Fi not working on Windows 11 and Outlook keeps asking for a password.

References

NIST, Daylight Saving Time (checked October 31, 2026): https://www.nist.gov/pml/time-and-frequency-division/popular-links/daylight-saving-time-dst
Apple Support, If you can't change the time or time zone on your Apple device: https://support.apple.com/en-us/101619
Microsoft Support, Set time, date, and time zone settings in Windows: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/experience/personalization/set-time-date-and-time-zone-settings-in-windows
Microsoft Support, Manage time zone settings in Outlook: https://support.microsoft.com/office/manage-time-zone-settings-in-outlook-65239869-12e7-4a9d-bca1-76b0ad7ce273
Microsoft Learn, Multiple time zones show an incorrect time difference when DST starts and ends: https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/troubleshoot/outlook/calendaring/additional-time-zone-shows-one-hour-offset-on-dst
Microsoft Learn (archived), Calendar items for the next year may display an incorrect time in Outlook: https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/previous-versions/troubleshoot/outlook/calendar-items-display-incorrect-time

This guide was researched and drafted with AI assistance and checked against the vendor documentation listed in its References. Read the maintained version and related guides on EpiFive.

AWS Budgets and Billing Alerts: Set Them Up Before a Surprise Bill

epifive — Fri, 30 Oct 2026 05:14:44 +0000

To avoid a surprise AWS bill, create a Zero spend budget and a Monthly cost budget in AWS Budgets, turn on Free Tier usage alerts, and optionally add a CloudWatch billing alarm. Do this before you launch anything. These alerts notify you; they do not stop spending, and they lag actual usage, so check the console regularly too.

Who this is for and what you will have at the end

This guide is for people opening a new AWS account for learning, a side project or a small business, and for anyone who has an account with no spending alerts. At the end you will have four layers of protection and an understanding of their limits:

A budget that alerts when you exceed the Free Tier.
A monthly cost budget with actual and forecasted alerts.
Free Tier usage alerts by email.
Optionally, a CloudWatch alarm on estimated charges.

The steps follow the AWS documentation in the References. Console labels change, so follow the nearest match if something differs. Prices are in USD. For the equivalent on Azure, see Azure Budgets and cost alerts.

Know what each tool does

Tool	What it does	Where	Notes
Free Tier usage alerts	Emails you when usage is forecast to exceed a set percentage of a Free Tier limit	Billing preferences	Default threshold 85%
AWS Budgets, cost budget	Alerts when actual or forecasted cost passes a threshold	Billing and Cost Management > Budgets	Information updated up to three times a day
AWS Budgets, actions	Applies an IAM policy or SCP, or targets EC2 or RDS instances, at a threshold	Budgets	Needs setup and a role
CloudWatch billing alarm	Alarm on the EstimatedCharges metric	CloudWatch, US East (N. Virginia)	Uses current charges, no projections

AWS Budgets can alert on both actual spend (after it accrues) and forecasted spend (before it accrues), according to AWS's documentation. CloudWatch billing alarms trigger only when current billing exceeds the threshold and do not use projections.

Step 1: Check your billing access and email

Sign in to the AWS Management Console and open the Billing and Cost Management console at https://console.aws.amazon.com/cost-management/.
Know which email gets alerts. Free Tier usage alerts go to the root user's email address by default, and you can add more addresses in Billing preferences.
If you want IAM users to see billing information or receive these alerts, AWS says you must also activate IAM user access to billing information. Only the root user can do this, and it is a separate setting from the alerts.

Avoid working as the root user day to day. Our guide on AWS IAM basics explains users, roles and policies.

Step 2: Turn on Free Tier usage alerts

In the AWS Billing console, go to Billing preferences.
Turn on Free Tier usage alerts.
Add any extra email addresses in the same section.

AWS says these alerts email you when usage is forecast to exceed a percentage of a Free Tier limit, with a default of 85%.

Understand which Free Tier applies

AWS's Free Tier documentation describes three kinds: Always Free offers that never expire, 12 Months Free offers that start when you open your account, and Free Trials that start when you activate a specific service. It also says new accounts may be able to choose between a Free plan, which limits spending to promotional credits and stops services when credits run out, and a Paid plan, which charges for usage beyond free offers. AWS notes plan options and credit amounts change, so check the current terms and your credit balance and expiration in the Billing console. The Free Tier page in the console shows usage against each offer's limit. For a cross-provider comparison, see AWS vs Azure vs Google Cloud free tiers.

Step 3: Create a Zero spend budget

The Zero spend budget notifies you after your spending exceeds AWS Free Tier limits. It is the simplest first alert on a new account.

Open the Billing and Cost Management console at https://console.aws.amazon.com/cost-management/.
In the navigation pane, choose Budgets.
At the top of the page, choose Create budget.
Under Budget setup, choose Use a template (simplified).
Under Templates, choose Zero spend budget.
Enter the budget name and the Email recipients, then update any other details.
Choose Create budget.

AWS describes this template workflow as a single page, unlike the 5-step workflow for customizing a budget. To change settings later, choose Custom under Template settings.

Step 4: Create a monthly cost budget

Repeat the steps above, but choose Monthly cost budget as the template.
Enter a budget amount in USD that you would be unhappy to exceed, for example a small figure for a learning account.
Add your email recipients and create the budget.

AWS describes this template as a monthly budget that notifies you if you exceed, or are forecast to exceed, the budget amount. Using both actual and forecasted alerts gives you an early warning and a firm one.

Add more than one threshold

If you want alerts at several levels, use the advanced workflow by choosing Customize (advanced) instead of the template, or edit the budget afterward. A common pattern is an early alert on forecasted spend, an alert near the limit, and one when the limit is reached. AWS's example for tracking a monthly cost budget configures notifications at 80 percent of the budgeted amount.

Verify your email recipient

When you add an email address, AWS Budgets sends a verification email from an @aws.com sender address, and only verified addresses receive notifications. The recipient must choose the link in the email and sign in to the AWS account that added it. Key details from AWS:

You can add up to 10 email recipients per budget notification.
Verification links expire 12 hours after they are sent. Choose Resend verification on the budget detail page for a fresh link.
Statuses shown include Active, Pending and Inactive. Choose Send Notification for an Inactive address.
If an organization uses an email allow list, add the @aws.com domain, and check spam folders.
An address used across different AWS accounts must be verified separately in each account.

An unverified address means silent budgets, so confirm the status shows Active before you rely on it.

Create a budget with the AWS CLI

AWS's documentation includes this CLI pattern for a monthly cost budget with an actual-spend alert. Replace the account ID, amount and address, and verify parameters against the current AWS CLI reference before use.

aws budgets create-budget \
  --account-id 123456789012 \
  --budget '{
    "BudgetName": "monthly-cost-limit",
    "BudgetLimit": {"Amount": "10", "Unit": "USD"},
    "TimeUnit": "MONTHLY",
    "BudgetType": "COST"
  }' \
  --notifications-with-subscribers '[{
    "Notification": {
      "NotificationType": "ACTUAL",
      "ComparisonOperator": "GREATER_THAN",
      "Threshold": 80,
      "ThresholdType": "PERCENTAGE"
    },
    "Subscribers": [{"SubscriptionType": "EMAIL", "Address": "admin@contoso.com"}]
  }]'

Step 5: Add a CloudWatch billing alarm (optional)

A CloudWatch alarm on estimated charges is a second, independent signal. It is useful because it tracks the EstimatedCharges metric directly.

Enable billing alerts

Open the Billing and Cost Management console and choose Billing Preferences in the navigation pane.
By Alert preferences, choose Edit.
Choose Receive CloudWatch Billing Alerts, then Save preferences.

AWS says you must be signed in as the root user or an IAM user with permission to view billing information, that it takes about 15 minutes after first enabling before you can see billing data, and that after you enable billing alerts you cannot disable data collection, though you can delete alarms you created. Accounts that are part of the Amazon Partner Network do not get billing metrics in CloudWatch.

Create the alarm

Open the CloudWatch console at https://console.aws.amazon.com/cloudwatch/ and change the Region to US East (N. Virginia). Billing metric data is stored there and represents worldwide charges.
In the navigation pane, choose Alarms, then All alarms, then Create alarm.
Choose Select metric. In AWS Namespaces, choose Billing, then Total Estimated Charge. Select the EstimatedCharges metric and choose Select metric.
For Statistic, choose Maximum. For Period, choose 6 hours.
For Threshold type, choose Static. For Whenever EstimatedCharges is, choose Greater, and enter a value in USD.
Under Additional Configuration, set Datapoints to alarm to 1 out of 1 and Missing data treatment to Treat missing data as missing.
Under Notification, make sure In alarm is selected and choose or create an Amazon SNS topic that includes your email address. Confirm the SNS subscription email when it arrives.
Name the alarm and choose Create alarm.

The metric is in USD only. If you create the alarm after charges already exceed the threshold, it goes to the ALARM state immediately. If you cannot see Billing or Total Estimated Charge, enable billing alerts and switch to US East (N. Virginia).

What these alerts cannot do

AWS is explicit about the limits of Budgets:

Budget information is updated up to three times a day, typically 8 to 12 hours apart.
There can be a delay between incurring a charge and receiving the notification, because of the delay between resource use and billing. You might incur additional costs that exceed the threshold before AWS Budgets can notify you, and costs may keep increasing after the notification.
Notifications warn you; by default nothing is stopped.

In practice, a forgotten large instance or a service with usage-based charges can cost money for hours before an alert arrives. Treat alerts as a smoke alarm, not a sprinkler.

Budget actions for automatic response

Budget actions can run automatically or after your manual approval when a threshold is exceeded or forecast to be. Per AWS, available actions include applying an IAM policy or a service control policy (SCP), and targeting specific Amazon EC2 or Amazon RDS instances in your account. From a management account you can apply an SCP to another account, but you cannot target EC2 or RDS instances in another account. AWS's example applies a custom Deny IAM policy that restricts provisioning more EC2 resources and targets specific EC2 instances in us-east-1.

Actions need a role that lets AWS Budgets run them, which you set up before configuring the action. According to AWS's pricing page at the time of writing, monitoring budgets and receiving notifications is free, the first two action-enabled budgets per month are free, each additional action-enabled budget costs $0.10 per day, and each emailed budget report costs $0.01.

Review routine and cleanup

Open the Billing console's Bills page and the Free Tier page weekly while learning.
Review Cost Explorer for trends. AWS says Cost Explorer is enabled when you create your first budget, and its graph can take up to 24 hours to appear.
When you finish an experiment, delete what you created: stop or terminate instances, delete volumes and snapshots, release unused addresses and remove test databases. A resource you forget keeps billing.
Delete the CloudWatch alarm or budget if you no longer need them. Budgets monitoring is free, so leaving it on costs nothing.

Troubleshooting

No alert emails: check the recipient status in the budget (Pending or Inactive means unverified), your spam folder, and any allow list for @aws.com.
Billing metric missing in CloudWatch: enable Receive CloudWatch Billing Alerts, wait about 15 minutes, and switch to US East (N. Virginia).
IAM user cannot see billing: the root user must activate IAM user access to billing information.
Alert arrived after the money was spent: expected, given the update delay. Add a lower threshold and use forecasted alerts.

Checklist

Turn on Free Tier usage alerts in Billing preferences.
Create a Zero spend budget and a Monthly cost budget with verified email recipients.
Add forecasted and actual thresholds.
Optionally enable CloudWatch billing alerts and create an alarm in US East (N. Virginia).
Remember alerts lag and do not stop spending; consider budget actions for hard control.
Clean up resources when you finish.

References

AWS, Managing your costs with AWS Budgets: https://docs.aws.amazon.com/cost-management/latest/userguide/budgets-managing-costs.html
AWS, Using a budget template (simplified): https://docs.aws.amazon.com/cost-management/latest/userguide/budget-templates.html
AWS, Adding email recipients to a budget notification: https://docs.aws.amazon.com/cost-management/latest/userguide/budgets-email-recipients.html
AWS, Configuring budget actions: https://docs.aws.amazon.com/cost-management/latest/userguide/budgets-controls.html
AWS, Create a billing alarm to monitor your estimated AWS charges: https://docs.aws.amazon.com/AmazonCloudWatch/latest/monitoring/monitor_estimated_charges_with_cloudwatch.html
AWS Free Tier usage alerts: https://docs.aws.amazon.com/cost-management/latest/userguide/free-tier-alerts.html
AWS Budgets pricing: https://aws.amazon.com/aws-cost-management/aws-budgets/pricing/

This guide was researched and drafted with AI assistance and checked against the vendor documentation listed in its References. Read the maintained version and related guides on EpiFive.

Android Theft Protection: Set Up Theft Detection Lock and Remote Lock

epifive — Fri, 30 Oct 2026 05:14:08 +0000

To protect an Android phone against snatch theft, open Settings > Google > All services > Theft protection and turn on Theft Detection Lock, Offline Device Lock and Remote Lock. Theft Detection Lock locks the screen when the phone senses it was grabbed and carried off, Offline Device Lock locks it if a thief cuts the connection, and Remote Lock lets you lock it from another device using your phone number. All three must be set up before the phone goes missing.

Who this is for and what you will have at the end

This guide is for anyone who carries an Android phone in public places, such as commuters, travelers, and employees whose phones hold work email and authenticator apps. It also suits IT admins who want a short checklist to give to staff with personal or company phones.

By the end you will have the theft protection features turned on, a verified phone number attached to Remote Lock, and a tested route for locking the phone from a laptop or a borrowed device. The steps below follow Google's Android Help page on theft protection, which is the source for every setting name in this article.

What each protection does

Theft protection is a group of separate features. They cover different moments in a theft, so they work best together.

Feature	What it does	Main limits
Theft Detection Lock	Uses AI, motion sensors, Wi-Fi and Bluetooth to detect that someone took the phone and ran, biked or drove away, then locks the screen automatically	Does not trigger with a stable Wi-Fi or Bluetooth connection, or after repeated locks in a short time; not active while the screen is already locked
Offline Device Lock	Locks the screen after the phone goes offline and is used offline for a short period	Phone must be unlocked when it loses connectivity; can lock twice in 24 hours
Remote Lock	Locks the screen from another device; if the phone is offline, it locks when it reconnects	Needs a screen lock, active SIM, verified number, Find Hub and internet; twice in 24 hours
Failed Authentication Lock	Locks the device after repeated failed unlock attempts	On by default

Theft Detection Lock

A common theft is a snatch: someone takes the phone from your hand and leaves on foot, on a bike or in a vehicle. Google describes Theft Detection Lock as using AI, motion sensors, Wi-Fi and Bluetooth to recognize that pattern and lock the screen without you doing anything. Because it is automatic, it helps in the seconds when you cannot react.

Google also states its limits. It does not trigger when the device has a stable Wi-Fi or Bluetooth connection, which is why a phone sitting on your home network is not repeatedly locked by ordinary movement. It does not trigger after repeated locks in a short time. And it does nothing if the screen is already locked.

Offline Device Lock

A thief who knows about Find Hub may switch off the internet connection first. Offline Device Lock addresses that. If the phone goes offline and is used offline for a short period, it locks the screen. Google says this protects you because without it a thief could stop you finding the phone by cutting its connection. The phone has to be unlocked at the moment it loses connectivity, and the feature can lock the device twice in 24 hours.

Remote Lock

Remote Lock is the feature you trigger yourself. You can lock the screen from another device, and if the phone is offline, it locks once it comes back online. After a remote lock, the phone can only be unlocked locally with your screen lock. Google notes you can use it twice in a 24-hour period.

Prerequisites

Check these before you start:

A screen lock (PIN, pattern, password or biometric) is set. Google lists this as the first requirement.
Your Android version. Google says theft protection steps generally need Android 10 or later, and some related features (such as Private space) need Android 15 or later. Check your version in Settings.
A supported device. The features are not supported on Android Go devices, tablets or wearables, and support varies by phone model.
For Remote Lock specifically: an active SIM card in the phone, a verified phone number, Find Hub turned on and an internet connection.

If you do not yet have a screen lock, set one first. Without it, the other features cannot work.

Turn on Theft Detection Lock and Offline Device Lock

Open Settings.
Tap Google, then All services.
Under Personal & device safety, tap Theft protection.
Turn on Theft Detection Lock.
Turn on Offline Device Lock.

If Theft Detection Lock is grayed out, Google says your device does not support it. There is no workaround in settings; the other protections on the same screen may still be available.

Failed Authentication Lock is on by default, and the same Theft protection screen lets you turn it on if it has been switched off. Leave it on. It limits how many guesses someone gets at your PIN.

Set up Remote Lock

Go to Settings > Google > All services > Theft protection.
Tap Remote Lock.
Turn on Remote lock.
If your phone number is not verified, tap Verify number, and turn on Automatically verify phone numbers.

Make sure Find Hub is also on, because Remote Lock depends on it.

Add an optional security question

Remote Lock lets you add a security question, which makes it harder for someone else to lock your phone by entering your number. To set it, go to Theft protection > Remote Lock > Security question (optional). You verify with your PIN or biometrics first. Google warns that if you enter an incorrect security answer, the remote lock fails, so choose an answer you will remember under stress and consider storing it in a password manager on another device.

Lock a phone remotely

When the phone is gone, use any other device with a browser:

Go to android.com/lock.
Enter your phone number.
Complete the reCAPTCHA.
Request the lock and answer the security question if you set one.

The phone locks right away if it is online, or when it next connects. Remember the limit of two remote locks in 24 hours. Locking is not the same as erasing. Google's page says that to wipe, secure or erase the device's data after a remote lock, you must sign in to Find Hub. For the full process of locating and erasing a device, see Lost or stolen phone: find, lock and erase it on Android and iPhone.

Verify the setup

Do a quick check once, on a day you are not in a hurry:

Open Theft protection again and confirm each switch you turned on is still on.
Confirm Remote Lock shows a verified number rather than a Verify number prompt.
Ask a family member to try android.com/lock with your number and see that the request is accepted. Be aware that a successful test locks your phone and counts toward the twice-in-24-hours limit, so do it only if you are comfortable entering your screen lock afterward.

Troubleshooting

Theft Detection Lock is grayed out

Your device does not support it. Check your Android version and model, and remember that Android Go devices, tablets and wearables are not supported.

Remote Lock will not turn on

Work through the requirements one at a time: screen lock set, SIM active, number verified, Find Hub on and an internet connection available. A missing verified number is the most common gap, and Verify number on the Remote Lock screen is where you fix it.

The remote lock request fails

If you set a security question, a wrong answer makes the lock fail. If the phone has already been locked twice in 24 hours, you have used the limit and must wait.

Theft Detection Lock did not trigger

This can be expected. It does not trigger with a stable Wi-Fi or Bluetooth connection, after repeated locks in a short time, or when the screen is already locked.

Related protections

The Theft protection screen also includes Identity Check, which you set up by signing in to a Google Account, adding a screen lock and biometrics, and adding trusted places. Turning it off requires you to verify your identity, and away from trusted places that means biometrics or your Google Account password. If your phone offers it, it protects the account as well as the handset. For wider privacy hygiene on the same phone, see Android app permissions: review and tighten privacy settings.

Checklist

Screen lock set and Android version checked.
Theft Detection Lock turned on, or confirmed unavailable on your model.
Offline Device Lock turned on.
Remote Lock turned on with a verified phone number and Find Hub enabled.
Optional security question set and its answer stored safely elsewhere.
Failed Authentication Lock left on.
android.com/lock bookmarked on your laptop.

References

Google Android Help, "Protect your personal data against theft" (theft protection, Theft Detection Lock, Offline Device Lock, Remote Lock): https://support.google.com/android/answer/15146908
Android remote lock page: https://android.com/lock
Android theft protection settings page: https://android.com/settings/theftprotection

This guide was researched and drafted with AI assistance and checked against the vendor documentation listed in its References. Read the maintained version and related guides on EpiFive.

iPhone Unavailable or Security Lockout: How to Get Back In

epifive — Fri, 30 Oct 2026 05:13:33 +0000

An iPhone that says iPhone Unavailable or Security Lockout has rejected too many wrong passcodes, and a forgotten passcode cannot be bypassed without erasing the phone. Apple's order of attempts is to try Passcode Reset with your old passcode first, then reset on the iPhone itself, then use a Mac or Windows PC in recovery mode. Only the first of these keeps your data, and it works only for 72 hours after a passcode change.

Who this is for and what you will have at the end

This guide is for anyone looking at an Unavailable or Security Lockout screen on an iPhone, and for the family member or office manager trying to help. By the end you will know which of the three routes applies to your phone, the exact taps or button presses for each, what you need on hand before you start, and how to get your photos and apps back afterward. It does not cover getting into someone else's phone, and it does not cover bypassing Activation Lock on a device you do not own. Apple does not offer a supported way to do either, and neither does this article.

What the two screens mean

Two messages appear after repeated wrong passcodes.

Screen	What you see	What it means
iPhone Unavailable	A message with a Forgot Passcode? option in the bottom corner (iOS 17 or later)	The phone has rejected your passcode attempts and is locked against more guesses
Security Lockout	A screen with a Start iPhone Reset option	You chose Forgot Passcode? and are being offered the reset

Apple's Passcode Reset article says the Unavailable screen appears after five incorrect passcode attempts. This guide does not give wait times for each further attempt because they are not stated in the Apple pages used here. The practical point is the same either way: waiting does not remove the need to know the passcode, and entering more guesses only keeps the phone locked.

If you remember the passcode but the screen is simply locked for a while, wait until the screen offers another attempt and enter it carefully. The rest of this guide is for when you cannot remember it.

Before you start: the checks that decide your route

Spend two minutes on these, because they decide which route is open to you and how much you can recover.

Did you change your passcode in the last 72 hours? If so, and the phone runs iOS 17 or later, the first route may save your data.
Is the phone online? The on-device reset needs an active cellular or Wi-Fi connection.
Was Find My turned on? The on-device reset needs it, and it cannot be switched on now that you are locked out.
Do you know the Apple Account password? You need it to sign out during the reset. If you do not, start recovery at Apple's account recovery page, iforgot.apple.com, on another device. Apple notes that recovery can take several days or longer, and that contacting Apple Support cannot shorten the wait.
Do you have a backup? Check iCloud from another device under your Apple Account, or look for a recent backup on the Mac or PC you normally sync with. Everything not in a backup is lost when the phone is erased. Our guide to iCloud versus computer backups explains how to tell what a backup contains.
Is the phone yours? If you bought it used and it asks for the previous owner's account, see the Activation Lock section below.

Route 1: Passcode Reset with your old passcode

Apple's Passcode Reset feature lets you unlock the phone temporarily with your previous passcode. After you change your passcode on iOS 17 or iPadOS 17 or later, you have 72 hours to use the old one. This is the only route in this guide that does not erase the phone.

On the Unavailable screen, tap Forgot Passcode? in the bottom corner.
Tap Enter Previous Passcode.
Enter the old passcode.
Follow the onscreen prompts to set a new passcode right away.

Apple lists the same conditions as the on-device reset: the Forgot Passcode? option appears only if you are locked out, connected to a cellular or Wi-Fi network, signed in to your Apple Account and have Find My turned on. If Enter Previous Passcode is missing, either more than 72 hours have passed, the phone runs an older iOS, or one of those conditions is not met. Move to route 2.

Route 2: Reset on the iPhone without a computer

This is the fastest route when the phone is online and Find My was on. It erases everything on the phone, and Apple states that tapping Erase permanently deletes all your data and settings.

iOS 17 or later

On the Lock Screen, keep entering a passcode until the Unavailable screen appears.
Tap Forgot Passcode?.
On the Security Lockout screen, tap Start iPhone Reset to confirm.
Enter your Apple Account password to sign out of your Apple Account on the phone.
Tap Erase iPhone. If the phone uses an eSIM, you are offered a choice: keep the eSIM and erase data, or delete the eSIM and erase data.
After the phone restarts, follow the onscreen setup, restore from a backup if you have one, and set a new passcode.

For iOS 16 or earlier, Apple's page says to contact your carrier for a QR code before starting if you use an eSIM.

iOS 15.2 to iOS 16

On these versions the option reads Erase iPhone rather than Forgot Passcode?. It appears under the same conditions: the phone is locked out, connected to a network, signed in to your Apple Account, and has Find My turned on. Tap it, enter your Apple Account password when asked, and let the erase finish.

If the option never appears

If you do not see Forgot Passcode? or Erase iPhone, one of the requirements is missing, most often because Find My was off or the phone cannot get a connection. Move to route 3. A computer does not need the phone to be online.

Route 3: Reset with a Mac or Windows PC in recovery mode

Apple's computer method needs a Mac or Windows PC, a cable that can charge your iPhone, an internet connection and up to 60 minutes. It erases the data on the phone.

What you need

A Mac, or a Windows PC with the Apple Devices app from the Microsoft Store.
A cable that carries data. A cable that only charges will not make the phone appear on the computer.
A stable internet connection, since the computer may need to download iOS.

If you do not have a computer and cannot borrow one, Apple says to visit an Apple Store or Apple Authorized Service Provider. You can find one at locate.apple.com.

Step 1: Turn the iPhone off

Face ID models: Hold the side button and a volume down button together until the power-off slider appears, then drag the slider.
Home button models, or models with a top button: Hold the top or side button until the slider appears, then drag it.

Step 2: Enter recovery mode

Connect the cable to the computer first, then to the iPhone. Then press and hold the button for your model and keep holding it through the Apple logo until you see an image of a computer and a cable.

iPhone model	Button to hold
Face ID models	Side button
iPhone 8, 8 Plus, SE (2nd and 3rd generation)	Side button
iPhone 7 and 7 Plus	Volume down
iPhone 6s and earlier, SE (1st generation)	Home button

Step 3: Restore from the computer

On a Mac:

Open a Finder window and select your iPhone under Locations in the sidebar.
Allow the accessory to connect if prompted.
When Finder offers Restore or Update, choose Restore.

On a Windows PC:

Open the Apple Devices app and select your iPhone in the sidebar.
Trust the device if prompted, then select General.
Select Restore and follow the onscreen instructions.

You may need to update iOS before the restore can finish. Apple warns that the download can take more than 15 minutes. If the phone leaves recovery mode during a long download, let the download finish if possible, then turn the phone off and start recovery mode again.

Step 4: Set up the iPhone

When the restore finishes, the Hello screen appears. Disconnect the phone and follow the setup prompts. Restore your data from a backup during setup if you have one.

What happens to your data

Route	Data on the phone	How to get it back
Passcode Reset (old passcode, within 72 hours)	Kept	Nothing to restore
Reset on the iPhone (Erase iPhone)	Erased	iCloud or computer backup during setup
Recovery mode on a computer	Erased	iCloud or computer backup during setup

If you have no backup, none of the Apple pages used for this guide describe a way to recover the contents of an erased iPhone. Data that already lives in your Apple Account in iCloud is not stored only on the phone, but anything kept only on the phone is gone.

Activation Lock and the Apple Account password

After an erase, Activation Lock stays in place. Apple explains that it turns on automatically when Find My is on, and that the previous owner's Apple Account password is required before anyone can turn off Find My, erase the device or reactivate and use it. On iOS 15 or later, a locked device shows an iPhone Locked to Owner screen.

For you, this means two things:

If it is your own phone, have your Apple Account password ready during setup after the erase. If you have forgotten it, use Apple's account recovery on another device before you start.
If you bought the phone used and setup asks for someone else's Apple Account, do not take ownership of it. Apple says the seller can enter their password on the device or, if they are not present, remove the device from their account in a browser. Our guide to Stolen Device Protection covers related settings that protect your own phone.

Troubleshooting

The phone does not show the computer-and-cable image

Check that the cable carries data, try another port, and repeat the power-off and button sequence for your model. Apple's recovery mode page also says to update macOS, or install the latest Apple Devices app on a PC, before starting. If a button does not respond or sticks, so you cannot enter recovery mode, Apple says to use its service options.

The computer says the phone is in recovery mode but offers Update or Restore

Apple's computer method for a forgotten passcode tells you to choose Restore. Apple notes that Restore reinstalls iOS and erases all data, and its general recovery guidance suggests trying Update first when you are fixing a phone you can still unlock. For a forgotten passcode, follow the Restore step in the reset guide.

The download takes too long and the phone leaves recovery mode

If the download runs longer than 15 minutes, the phone may exit the Connect to computer screen. Let the download finish, then repeat the recovery mode steps.

The Apple logo stays on screen with no progress bar

Apple lists this as a symptom that calls for recovery mode. Connect the phone to a computer with the latest software and follow the steps above.

The Apple Account password is not accepted

Do not keep retrying the reset. Start account recovery at iforgot.apple.com from another device, and expect a wait of several days. If you start recovery on a device running iOS 17, iPadOS 17 or macOS 27 or later, Apple says you can keep using that device while you wait, but signing in successfully on a device already linked to the account cancels the request.

Prevent the next lockout

Turn on Find My now, since the on-device reset depends on it.
Keep iCloud Backup or a regular computer backup up to date, so an erase costs you minutes rather than data.
Remember your Apple Account password, or store it in a password manager.
If you change your passcode, note the old one for 72 hours in case you forget the new one.
Do not let children or visitors guess at the passcode on your phone. Five wrong attempts put the phone on the Unavailable screen.

Checklist

Check whether you changed your passcode within 72 hours and use Enter Previous Passcode if so.
Otherwise, if the phone is online and Find My was on, use Forgot Passcode?, Start iPhone Reset, then Erase iPhone.
If neither is available, use a Mac or Windows PC and recovery mode, and choose Restore.
Have your Apple Account password ready and recover the account first if you do not know it.
Restore from an iCloud or computer backup during setup, then set a new passcode.
Turn on Find My and keep a current backup so the next lockout is a minor event.

References

Apple Support, If you see an iPhone, iPad, or Apple Vision Pro unavailable message or Security Lockout screen
Apple Support, Use a computer to reset your iPhone and your passcode
Apple Support, If you forget your new passcode, use your old passcode to unlock your iPhone or iPad within 72 hours
Apple Support, If you can't update or restore your iPhone or iPod touch
Apple Support, Restore your iPhone, iPad, or iPod to factory settings using a computer
Apple Support, Activation Lock for iPhone and iPad
Apple Support, Apple Account recovery

This guide was researched and drafted with AI assistance and checked against the vendor documentation listed in its References. Read the maintained version and related guides on EpiFive.